Report from Pasadena Pinot Fest 2012

Pasadena Pinot Fest 2012 was an interesting event. The space was crowded with beautiful wines, and with way too many persons for the size of the room, and in an unexpected twist I left with a list of winners that diverged far from the pinot-centric focus. I found many of the California pinots to be simply too big, and too ripe. Some may say that is an unfair criticism, but it is balanced with a true love for the pinots that showed balance. I know that it can be argued that California pinot has a right to show itelf differently than pinot from Oregon or Burgundy. It has a right to be powerful, and that is not a flaw. But heat, excessive extraction, and an inability to play nice with food is generally unappealing to me. At least when it comes to Pinot Noir, the wonderful grape whose beauty is best expressed in medium bodied, velvetty tannins, and a balance of earth and fruit flavors. So while you might expect a report from Pasadena Pinot Fest to include a long list of recommended Pinots, you will find here a rather eclectic mix of beautiful wines for your purchasing and sipping pleasure (and yes, there are some Pinots).

Arcadian Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay 2007 - Arcadian makes some pretty fruit forward wines, but with beautiful oak integration, bright acidity, and very fresh citrus and melon flavors this Chardonnay more than handles itself. It was delicious, it had richness, and yet it maintained a wonderful sense of balance. I often feel as conflicted about California Chardonnay as I do about California Pinot Noir - they are too big for their britches too often, but then you find those that are distinctly Californian and obviously world class. This is smackdab in that category.

Coeur de Terre 2010 Pinot Gris - Not your typical Oregon Pinot Gris, this wine reminded me more of Sauvignon Blanc with its grassy herbal notes and rocky minerality. Very fresh, very different, and a much more pleasant style of Pinot Gris for me, I can clearly recommend this for those who like dry, refreshing, crisp white wines that will show really well on the table. This lone Oregon producer at the Festival also showed how wonderful Willamette Valley Pinot Noir can be with their mushroomy, earthy, cherry-fruited 2009 Estate Pinot Noir. (If typicity is important to you, the PG might frustrate you. Also, relax!)

Palmina Arneis Santa Ynez Valley 2010 - A regular favorite of mine for its rich pear flavors balanced by fresh citrus acidity. I'm not sure why Palmina was pouring at this event, they do not make a Pinot, although it was probably in a nod to Steve Clifton whose other labels make some very well respected Pinots. Either way, this is a wonderfully different Cal-Ital bottle, and one that I thoroughly enjoy every time I drink it. (Bonus points for looking up and reading about Arneis prior to drinking this.)

Sojourn Cellars 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - Along with his spectacular Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III Cabernet, Sojourn's Erich Bradley was pouring some delicious juice. Unknown to me prior to this festival, this label was my most exciting find. The Sonoma Coast Pinot has a wonderful lushness to it that is so perfectly kept in check by its acidity as to make a glass of Pinot that shines on its own but would also be spectacular with food. These are the styles of California wine that make us stand out, and should therefore be supported!

Clos Pepe Pinot Noir Vertical - Clos Pepe was pouring several years of their Estate Pinot Noir, in an opportunity to really experience the vintage variation. While all were recommended, the 2008 was particularly delicious. The older wines (specifically 2000, and 2002) both had some life left in them, and were well settled into themselves. The acidity may have been more pronounced, the fruit a bit more in the background, but clearly Clos Pepe produces wines that can hold on, and each bottle of wine had its own appeal.

Harmonique Elegance 2006 - Another producer I was not familiar with, Harmonique produces several Pinots out of their Alexander Valley homebase. All of their wines were restrained, and showed off that medium bodied silkiness that I love in a Pinot. The Elegance did this with a real sense of dark cherry fruit, and I can see it being a winner for those who love balanced California Pinot.

There you have it, a few Pinots, a few white wines, and even a Napa Cabernet sneaking into the list of great wines encountered at this year's Pasadena Pinot Fest. I hope it serves as a guide to getting into California Pinot Noir, as well as a glimpse into why you should look to attend this festival next year. Cheers!