PSMIOFF 2.01 - Grenache (Part 2)

A continuation of the report on our Grenache tasting - only this time chock full of some beautiful Grenache Noir for your purchasing and sipping pleasure. No need for a background on what the hell PSMIOFF is (just click back one article) let's dive right into it. Grenache is on the rise - not to say that it hasn't always been a respected grape in Southern France and Northern Spain, it has. But many have had their reservations about the somewhat difficult little bastard. It tends to ripen late, and when it ripens it can ripen quickly causing overly juicy, overly alcoholic, and potentially flabby wines. Much of France has considered it better as a blending grape, an important part of Southern Rhones blends, but equally important to be given a bit more structure and depth with shots of Mourvedre or Syrah. But modern winemaking techniques and careful attention in the vineyard have allowed this varietal to emerge on its own, or at least as a largely primary grape in blends. Witness the boom of single varietal Grenache in California Rhone Ranger bottles, the AOC status of Gigondas, and the hundreds of bottles of Spanish Garnacha.

We discovered that no matter where these wines were coming from they had noses of berry (ranging from strawberry to blackberry), and often a great subtle spiciness. At times there was beautiful earthy elements, or slight and pleasant oak influence. On the other hand we did encounter wines that were too juicy, too jammy, or just downright hot (evident alcohol). Overall however the group was surprised with how delicious, generally affordable, and consistent these Grenaches showed. None of the 11 wines we tasted were bad, and the first 6 are recommended. Here in my order of preference:

1) The Cristia 2010 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes is full of rich red berry, with waves of rose in the nose (its the kind of nose that keeps you going back - and might I add gets you made fun of as a snob since you continuously smell your wine). The palate has nice, easy red fruit with hints of chocolate, Asian spices, and some beautiful earthiness. 75% grenache, supported by Mourvedre, this was my wine of the night both for its amazing value, and refined sensibility.

2) Also on the red fruit aspect, but with a cool splash of tomato leaf, the Barrel 27 Rock & Hard Place 2008 Grenache hails out of Paso Robles. It captures that Paso Robles size, but does it well with interesting ripe strawberry fruit, red licorice, and beautiful spice. Just when you think it pushes towards over the top, it pulls back with a burst of bright acid, and some savory aspects that make it delicious. This wine is absolutely delicious (and only $18)!

3) Back to France, and with a wine that is a bit bigger and more modern than most Cotes du Rhone, the Cercius Cotes du Rhone 2010 is brimming with bright, smooth, and ripe red raspberries, a bit of smokey oak, and a long earthy finish. Again, well south of $20, and again a delicious primarily Grenache wine.

4) An older vintage, and very different (God bless vintage variation) the 2007 Barrel 27 Rock & Hard Place Grenache is riper, with more vanilla oak, but also some beautiful minty herbs. The finish is more strawberry fruit than earth, and this wine is a touch hotter, but again has a nice balancing acidity and a tasty factor that is undeniable.

5) Wow, like a ping pong ball between France and California, next up is the Chateau Pesquie Terrasses Ventoux. This is the fist wine that has a mellow lightness to it, is more earth and spice, with a hint of raspberry fruit. Also rather earthy in its finish this is a great value, and a real wine for the table.

6) Finally to Spain, with a very inexpensive wine that surprised me in its drinkability and pure pleasure. Simply red berries and earth the Bitch 2009 Aragon Grenache is not going to blow your mind. But it is going to make you feel like it was $6 well spent, and is a great introduction to Spanish Garnacha.

7) Jean-Marie Arnoux Vacqueyras 2009 brought a bit of the funk with a mushroom mixed with potpourri nose, and a floral and red fruit palate. This wine dies a rather quick death in the finish, and just didn't bring a whole lot of excitment to the table.

8) The Cass 2009 Grenache was a bit of a disappointment. It was good, it represented the light bodied, almost Pinot like style that Grenache does well, but it was a bit boring. Strawberries and bright acid across its lithe frame made for a pleasant drink, but not a particularly exciting glass of wine.

9) A bit of stank and heat slightly outshone the pretty blueberries that the Xiloca Aragon Grenache offered. These things could have been okay, but the structure just wasn't there to support it.

10) The Bodega de Edgar 2009 Grenache had some nice red fruit, spice, and cinnamon aspects, but it was clouded by its intense alcohol heat. This wine was just too much for the back of the throat. Once it was open for awhile it became tolerable, but was still not something I would choose to drink, except as a warmer on a very cold night. It just couldn't quite hold its alcohol.

11) A wine I have really enjoyed in the past, the 2009 Tres Picos Borsao Garnacha was a bit scattered yet. Maybe in time it will come together, but for now the sweet vanilla Coke aspect dominated and made the wine feel flabby and out of sorts. The Campo de Borja region makes some wonderful, generally big and modern, versions of Garnacha, and Tres Picos has historically been a real bargain, but the 2009 either doesn't do it, or doesn't do it yet.

The end game on this tasting was that Grenache has a place in all of our cellars. While yet to exist in the minds of the average consumer as a go-to varietal, it really should be. It doesn't have the hype of Pinot Noir, or Cabernet Sauvignon, but that only serves to keep the prices reasonable. It gets lost in people's minds as it is not on the label of the French blends, and has a slightly different name in Spain, but that under the radar status is allowing great things to be done. It has enough subtlety in general to pair with lighter meats (pork, duck, even some robustly sauced pastas), and enough structure to take on tougher meals. In summation, Grenache can and should become a part of your rotation - get some while the getting's good.