The Conundrum of California Pinot Noir - and An Invitation to Pasadena Pinot Fest 2012

There is conflict in California Pinot Noir for me. On one hand it has been a resounding success, and that success is entirely due to the authentic hard work and dedication of many a vineyard manager, winery owner, or winemaker. The unique expression of this often difficult grape has found it's niche from Santa Barbara to Mendocino, and there are thousands of examples for which I would spend my money and time to enjoy. But on the other hand there are thousands of examples that are hyper ripe, fat, almost sweet, and terribly unappealing to my palate. I can go on streaks where I think I am ready to write off California Pinot, but then always find myself encountering a spectacular bottle that pulls me back. So what should California Pinot strive to be (obviously written from my own preference's perspective)?

California Pinot has a right, and a need, to be uniquely California in its expression. Sunshiney fruit is a joy when balanced with acidity, some balancing flavors (earth, forest, minerality), and an appropriately sexy mouthfeel, as Pinot should have. California Pinot does not need to be 'Burgundian' in style, but that does not excuse it from a sense of balance. California Pinot should find the happy medium in its body - maybe fuller than many examples from Oregon, but not nearing the sense of the Syrah grown right next to it. It should hint at the sunny days under which it ripened, but should never taste liked stewed or pruney fruit. And last of all it should not burn under sky high alcohol. I don't have a alcohol prejudice, but I do have an obvious heat prejudice.

Oh, and one more thing - the fruit and structure must outlast the oak influence. Rich is okay, a mouthfull of oak - not so okay.

So what does all that confusing speak mean? I have an example for you to find out, and an event during which you will more than come to understand. I recommend both highly, as in my Pinot conundrum I have come to realize that my conflicted feelings have developed quite a passion for exploring, and often loving, California Pinot Noir.

So you want one bottle that represents the balance? Check out La Follette 2009 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir Sonoma Mountain. Crafted by Greg La Follette (a scientist at heart, who is passionate about applying his careful approach to his trade), the 2009 VdK Pinot struck me as a fantastic representation of what California Pinot Noir should be. It is dark red, darker than you will generally see in Oregon or Burgundy, but maintains a translucence. There is some rich red fruit, cherry primarily, but it is balanced with a mineral bite, some dusty cocoa and a delicious meatiness. The structure of the tannins and the perfectly balanced acidity finish this wine off, and suggest it can take some age, and the mouthfeel is wonderfully satiny - as it should be. At $39.99 (suggesting you might find it in the low $30's) this wine is my recommendation of the month for understanding how beautiful California Pinot can be.

So you want to thoroughly explore California Pinot Noir? One of the greatest wine events to come to Los Angeles each year is the Pasadena Pinot Fest. The location is beautiful, and the winery representation offers the beginner or the geek a brilliant chance to truly experience the different expressions of this complicated grape. Tickets are $89, but this gives you 4 hours of access to over 200 Pinots, and it has historically had some very nice catering. In previous years the crowds have not been overwhelming, giving you a chance to talk to each winemaker or representative to truly understand what makes their region, and their expression of Pinot unique. I have found big score wines that I detest, big score wines that I love, and relatively unknown micro-producers that really get my heart racing at this event, and I can't recommend it enough. For further information, and to purchase tickets, check out the event site here.

In the end California Pinot is only a conundrum for me because it has such various expressions. The joy is in finding the ones that really hit the sweet spot. Here's to your exploration.

The La Follette was provided as a media sample.