The 10 Most Exciting Wines of 2011

I know people bag on Top Ten lists. But I don't know why. Maybe it is their fear of commitment. It is a pleasure for me to taste hundreds and hundreds of wines each year and carefully include a few in a rather short list. Those that stuck with me, stood out amongst the rest, and linger in my memories of 2011. The list I prefer to make is not necessarily those who I would score the highest (as occasionally rather perfect wines don't completely hold my interest.) Instead they are the 10 wines that were exciting for me. The 10 wines I remember exactly how they smelled and tasted, or how they added to a wonderful experience. So I present to you my 10 most exciting wines of 2011, and say without reservation that any of them would bring pleasure:

10) 2007 Scagliola Frem Barbera d'Asti - Maybe it was finding this wine for $10, but it seriously delivered with mushrooms and dark fruit, and perfect oak spicing (not easy for me to say). It was a spectacular blend of fruit and Italian rusticity that reminded me that Italian wine is made for the dinner table - as it went perfectly with our grilled sausage dinner.



9) 2008 Zotovitch Cellars Syrah - I've been a bit of a California Syrah advocate this year, and here is an example of why I love it. The meatiness and black pepper hint at the cold climate of these Sta. Rita Hills vineyards, and yet a hefty alcohol level integrates and adds some power. Steve Clifton consulted on this wine, and the result is delicious (and exciting!)



8) 2009 Uvaggio Vermentino - Back to Italy, but via Lodi, California. This wine is spectacularly savory and fresh. I chose it because I think there is something to Italian varietals and Lodi, something I would not have expected. While this is clearly my favorite wine of the lot, I have had some interesting dry Moscato, and Barbera from Lodi as well this year and hope that they are on to something. The price here is incentive to try it as well.



7) 2008 " The Day Job" Stage Left Cellars - A unique blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvedre makes for a layered wine that is distinct and exciting. I was also captivated by the story of Melinda Doty and Rich Williams who have built this urban Oakland winery piece by piece. If you get a hold of this wine, and really want to know what lingers for me, smell and taste for the Mourvedre's savory influence in the finish. I can still taste it.



6) 2008 Wind Gap Syrah Griffin's Lair - Oops, another California Syrah from a fairly cold vineyard happens to sneak in here. This one is multi-layered, broad, and a bit wild. It is truly a beautiful wine, from a label that is consistently making spectacular bottles.



5) 2010 Bedrock Compagni Portis Heirloom White - This wine makes the list because of owner/winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson's dedication to the nearly extinct 12 varietals of Compagni Portis vineyard that make up this blend. Well, some are nearly extinct. The wine is primarily Gewurtzraminer, and it is spectacularly waxy, tropical, and floral. It is a unique wine that seems truly Californian, but the spice and mineral on the finish bring it home in a way that is difficult to describe.



4) 2006 Vergari Van der Kamp Pinot Noir - I go back and forth with Pinot Noir, because there are so many bad ones. But this wine is spectacular. I first met David Vergaria at Pasadena's Pinot Fest last February, and have become a customer. His focus is clear (age able, balanced pinot from California's best vineyards) and his success is evident in each bottle I have opened. The Van der Kamp offers dusty cherries and herbs, hints of smoke and earth, and beautiful acidity.



3) 2009 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane - Expensive, yes. Mind-blowing, yes. Able to create a Condrieu evangelist out of me, triple yes. I had no idea what Viognier could be until I tasted this spicy, musky, smokey beauty. But it was the contrast between the expansive flavors that effortlessly maintained an intense focus that really got me excited. I rarely say this on The Vino File, but this bottle is worth the nearly $100 price tag.



2) 2010 Maison Bleue Marsanne Boushey Vineyard - Another white Rhone, but from Stateside this time. The almonds, the beautiful peach, and the sublime texture makes this wine intensely appealing. Add the winery's other outstanding wines in the last two years and you have yourself an up and comer that still offers outstanding value. Washington has a winner in this wine, and in Maison Bleue.



1) Henriot NV Blanc Souverain Brut - Yep, a Champagne takes my wine of the year. I don't drink enough of this stuff, and this is the bottle that set me straight. Apple fruit and pleasing bubbles yes, but a lot more. There is a hazelnut aspect to this wine, and just the right sense of creaminess. I lingered over this glass, and went on and on, just long enough to get off my bum and start adding Champagne to my regular buying (and drinking) habits. More than any other wine, this bottle changed my wine consumption habits. I dare you to resist it's appeal.



Some amazing wines, from a great year. Making the list brings back some great memories and yet definitely propels me with excitement into 2012. I would love to hear your most exciting wine of 2011 in the comments. In the meantime have a very Happy New Year!!

Merry Christmas To All

Just a quick post today to wish you all a very merry Christmas (or whatever you may be celebrating this week). I genuinely hope that as 2011 winds to an end you find yourself surrounded by friends and family with a moment to relax and reflect, and certainly with some time to enjoy some good food and wine.

2011 for me will be remembered as the year I spent in San Francisco, the year the blog shifted down to a more manageable once-a-week endeavour, and the first year in a long time that the niece and nephew count held steady at 6. It was a polarized and therefore rather inefficient year in Washington, a second year of strangely cold grape ripening in the U.S, and the end to our troops in Iraq. Globally we saw a developing Euro crisis, and revolutions in the Middle East.

Its worth a moment to reflect as we start to look forward to 2012. For me it is worth a few celebrations (because you got through something, or because of accomplishments, both worth some joy!) It is worth a moment of planning or dreaming about what next year holds, and it is worth me telling you that I appreciate that you read and enjoy this blog. As I've always said, this is fun for me - and I genuinely appreciate that you share that experience.

So a quick toast, a sincere wish of holiday cheer, and a promise to be back one more time this year to share my most interesting wines of 2011. Now off to the market to get that horseradish for tomorrow's prime rib (it's an excuse for the unusual opening of a big California Cabernet tomorrow evening!!) Cheers!

A Quick Trip to Planet Bordeaux

It is no wonder that Bordeaux as a category fights for the everyman attention in the United States. The general story an American consumer hears from Bordeaux involves intense auctions in Hong Kong, vitally important vintage variation, confusing implied quality dependent on the village name on the bottle, and the idea that Bordeaux means tannic red wines meant for a big hunk of beef. The irony is that all of these things CAN be true. But the flip-side gets lost in the sensationalism. I have found, in a couple of interactions with the marketing group Planet Bordeaux, that there is a simple and ultimately very pleasant way to skirt around these imposing generalizations. There are whole swaths of bottles of Bordeaux produced in less recognized vineyards that are categorized simply as Bordeaux, or Bordeaux Superieur. Still grown and vinified with tight standards, these wines don't demand the attention of their 'more important' cousins. This comes at a bit of a price; what do you potentially lose:

1. Not all of these wines are as high quality as the more specific regional AOC designated wines (Paulliac, Graves, etc.) but this is not always true
   


2. These wines generally do not age as long as the more specific regional AOC designated wines
   


3. The producers are certainly less well known or marketed, so it is more often the case that you are taking a chance

But what is to be gained by drinking Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur

1. These wines are fantastically affordable (usually under $20, sometimes closer to $10)
   


2. These wines can be drunk early, buy it tonight and drink it tonight
   


3. There are large quantities of these wines, new producers to explore any day of the week
   


4. These wines offer some great quality finds
   


5. There are whites, clairets, and reds to fit with a huge variety of foods and event

So the pros vastly outweigh the cons. Every time I explore this inexpensive category I am reminded that these are wonderful every day wines that more Americans can and should enjoy. They generally taste and feel like what you might expect from 'Bordeaux', therefore fitting a unique category in your wine exploration. And they won't break the bank.

During a recent tasting with Planet Bordeaux I was introduced to the following wines, all of which I can recommend, presented here in my order of preference:

Chateau de Bel 2009 Bordeaux Superieur - Smokey in the nose and on the palate, there is plenty of rich blackberry and plum to appeal to the fruit inspired folks. The tar and spice keep things nice, and the freshness to this wine keeps it from ever appearing 'gloppy' Delicious and impressive for the $16 price tag.

Chateau Lamothe Vincent 2009 Bordeaux - Fig, cedar, and tobacco invite the nose, and dark berries and earth lead to a lead like, minerally finish. A bit more classically Old World than the Bel, this is a deep and structured wine - and only $15!

Grand Vin de Reignac 2008 - You have read about Reignac wines on these pages before, and possibly heard about this star Chateau elsewhere. This is a wine that has often been blind tasted against the big boys and almost always held its own. The 2008 was a bit closed for me (these babies can take some bottle age) but the dusty hints of leather on the nose, nice oak notes on the palate, and firm tannins hint at a beautiful wine and another year of spectacular bargain.

Chateau de Parenchere 2010 Bordeaux Clairet - Bordeaux produces some wonderful rose wines, often a bit more serious than the more famous French roses from Provence. These wines are a deeper red, this one was bright cherry red, and the vibrant red fruits lean more towards ripe plums than you might expect. This wine was certainly vibrant but had more serious spice, even chocolate and earth, in the palate. Interesting for its refreshing qualities that juxtapose against its more serious qualities - and a wine that would be a blast to play with in interesting and unexpected food pairings (i.e. this could take some heft from the plate) The exciting thing about this wine is that if you generally like roses you will probably like this wine, and if you generally do not - this wine might surprise you. At $12 its worth the experimentation.

Finally we tasted the Chateau Larteau 2005 to get an idea of how these inexpensive wines can take a bit of age. There was a bit of sweet cherry to the nose and palate of this wine that surprised me, but also blueberries, sweet pipe tobacco, and some nice chalky tannins. This wine was taking its age well, but overall seemed less interesting and vibrant than the other wines. That said, it was good, and well worth the 10 BP it will cost you (shipping across the pond might be a hefty bill...) I'm not sure you can easily find this vintage in the US, but take this as a note - these wines can take some bottle age (not the 30 years of Lafitte, but if you like some tertiary development you can do this)

I can't reiterate enough how strongly I feel these wines are missing from most American's consideration. Be it the low price that does not inspire confidence, the aversion to Bordeaux as an overwhelming category, or the tendency to buy your everyday wine at the supermarket - ignoring Bordeaux is deciding to miss out. This winter take my heartfelt advice and try a few (you might just change your tune about Merlot in the meantime).

Things I Like

Today's post is sort of like the old Oprah Christmas shows, only none of you are going to find the things I list here under your seat. As the holidays pass by in a blur I am the type that genuinely gets very excited for old traditions, new treats, and general good cheer. While thinking about things I wanted to write about on the 'ole blog, the list just kept growing. So see this as a wish list, or a recommendation list - whichever is least offensive to your sensibilities and join me in enjoying the next couple of weeks simply because it is a fun thing to do:

1) Sparkling rosé - It's fun, it's festive, and it is so damn good. Sparkling rosés come in all price ranges and instantly liven up a moment. They do well as aperitifs or as food accompaniments to early courses. You can find them made from Pinot Noir in California and Burgundy, or from grapes of Cava (Trepat and Garnacha) by going Spanish. I recommend, as an inexpensive option, the Freixnet Cordon Rosado Cava NV. The bright citrus flavors blend with red berry fruitiness, and ends dry for a tasty treat.

2) Saving for special bottles - I think it is important to find wines that you can drink on a regular basis without denting your grocery budget. I think it is also important to find producers you love, and splurge on their stuff occassionally for a dinner party, or special night at home. But lately I have also found it very exciting to set your eyes on a prize and save for it. I'm talking scouting for a 10th anniversary wine, or 21st birthday wine (don't waste it on the youth themselves, however!!) Online auctions offer some well-aged prizeworthy wines, that can be had at great prices (if you skip the La Tache). One auction that is running through the holidays is set to benefit a family in New York whose daughter has gone missing. Check out the details here.

3) Molasses Spice Cookies - I mean it. I have deep cravings for these chewy morsels, but have made myself only bake them (by the dozen) during December. I love the Cook's Illustrated recipe as they come out chewy and spicy - but I'll take them anyway I can get them.

4) Pinot Noir - There is something ethereal about Pinot Noir that just makes me a bit crazy for it. It seems elegant, and at the dinner table it is truly versatile. This is a must with holiday dinner parties, as dishes range from sweet to spicy, from rich to light, and they tend to get all jumbled into family style servings. The wonderful thing about Pinot is that it has such unique expressions depending on where it is from and how it is grown and handled in the cellar. A recent bargain (and alternate location to the usual) that I came across is The Crossings 2009 Pinot Noir Marlborough. This New Zealand Pinot is light and bright, with cherry, a bit of toasty wood, some potpurri spice and a brisk cranberry finish. It just seems Christmasy, and at under $20 is a bargain.

5) Kiki and Coco In Paris - I know, a children's book? But at my age I have several little girls to buy Christmas gifts for, and this book is the rare find that suits them all. It is a beautiful work of photography, with a story that has heart. I know you don't expect to find random book suggestions on The Vino File, but if you are buying gifts for a girl under 8, this is a sure bet.

6) Decorating with real greenery - I grew up in Oregon and can vouch that if you are worried about sustainability you do have options. Yes, there are large monocultured strip wastes of trees, but many are now farming organically, and blending their lots into established forests which are protected by their practices. And bringing in fresh boughs, wreaths, and trees makes a house warm and smell great. So unless you have a pine allergy, skimp on the gifts if you must and fill your house with fresh pine this December.

A little list of the things I like, the things that make my December a bit brighter. I wish you and yours a warm and joyfully holiday season as well.

Warm Wine for a Windy Winter

The story: We had quite a little event here in Pasadena this week. Cold winds, pushed down through the canyons in the San Gabriel Mountains by a high pressure system, whipped us pretty good. With speeds up to 92 mph recorded, Pasadena was essentially at the epicenter of one of the worst wind storms Southern California has seen in years. While we escaped the devestating potentials of wildfires, we sat in our creaking houses as hundreds of trees fell across the city - smashing cars, houses, and apartments, tearing up sidewalks and streets, ripping down powerlines, and generally reminding us of our helplessness in the face of nature.

It was intimidating. It was humbling in its requirement for us to sit and wait. The damage would be what the damage would be. And it made me think of a few bigger, warmer wines I have had recently that sure would have made the long winter night pass by a little easier. As snow and wind and rain and cold surround us for the next couple of months - here are some perfect winter wines to keep you cozy inside.

The wines - Trinitas Petite Sirah 2006 Old Vine Lodi is a jet black inky wine with a ruby red rim. The nose is big, gamey, and brimming with black cherry and hints of menthol. It warms you through the sip with dark berries, licorice, cocoa dust, earth and a big tannic structure. The finish does not disappoint, is a bit candied, hints of pencil lead, and stays toasty for a long memory after going down. This is a big wine, as petite sirah and Lodi are apt to provide, but is balanced and tasty. Looks like they still have some Jeroboams left of this vintage (which would be a blast during a winter get together) but the later vintages have been said to be as good as 2006, so keep your eye out.

Nothing warms and calms the soul like a good Port. And nothing represents Port-style wines better than an authentic Porto from Porto Portugal. Made of the traditional Port grapes (Touriga Franca, Tinto Roriz, and a whole list of Tourigas and Tintos) the Fonseca Bin No. 27 First Reserve Porto is a big, warm, chocolatey glass of goodness. The vibrant purple juice shows dusty blueberries, and prunes, rather bright fruit and mocha, and a velvetty texture. A bit of booze belies the fortification, but that is to be expected. Around a fire, and after a meal this wine is sure to please and keep the chill away (or bearable).

The verdict: While winter can bring some difficult or even scary weather, it also offers a lovely alternative setting in which to switch your wine consuming gears. The recommended wines above are two great examples of wines to purchase over the next couple of months, but there is a whole slew of big, ripe, higher alcohol wines that can fit this bill. It is common these days among wine geeks to praise a sense of balance that lighter, earthier, more acidic wines can bring to a dinner table - and I agree. But I also think there is a place for all wines that knit their components together well (whatever the constitution of these components may be) and cold, windy days offer me (and you) an opportunity for a whole different category. Stay warm and enjoy!

Disclaimer - The Port was provided as a media sample with intent to review.