Licking Palette?

One reason I love wine bloggers is because they encourage a transparency not necessarily ubiquitous in more traditional media. I try, with my limited exposure, knowledge, and complete lack of pride, to be real and honest in all of my actions here on The Vino File. So I need to quickly confess that it has been correctly brought to my attention that I have been tasting wine for the last year and a half with a wooden board used for mixing paint.

I have written the word 'palette' on these pages probably hundreds of times, and I have been incorrect. The correct spelling for the portion of your mouth with which it was originally believed that you taste, and by extension the flavors and mouthfeel of wine and beer is palate.

This little dollop of ignorance was acknowledged to me by a senior editor of a rather prominent wine magazine, for which I am grateful. At first I considered blaming all of you who never pointed it out to me. I guess the shame might have begun to overwhelm me. Then I realized that the buck stops here. I learn something everyday and today it was the fact that ignorance passes right through spell checker. I can make one promise, it will be correct going forward. Incidentally there is also a pallet, which is the wooden structure under the cases of wine used for a forklift to move them around. And while I vote that we make all three spellings universally applicable to all three concepts, I imagine I am in the minority.

There you have it, your transparent wine blogger confession of the day.

Unofficial Varietal of Summer 2011: Albariño

The story: I apologize if this post finds you in rainy, cold, windy, or snowy weather. Just remember that it costs a fortune (and a spirit of extreme patience whilst driving) to live in Southern California where we all but guarantee ourselves warm weather and sunny skies as May approaches. This changing of the seasons has begun and I find myself more and more inclined to chill down a white wine and have dinner outside. In the past couple of weeks I have made a monumental and inconsequential decision that albariño will be the unofficial white wine grape varietal of the summer in my backyard.



Albariño hails from the Rias Baixas region on Spain's Northwest coast in Galicia. The grape is generally produced as a very crisp, completely dry wine praised for its amazing aromatics, and full fruit profile that balances to a pronounced minerality and often a spritz of distinct salinity. Quickly growing in popularity the grape has spread internationally with some recent success. There are several domestic versions of albariño being produced that are impressive and delicious including Verdad, Silver Horse, and Bonny Doon.



The wine: To get the summer started I came across a rather inexpensive and widely available albariño from Rias Baixas Paco y Lola. Bottled in a fun and attractive bottle, this wine seems to expressly lend itself towards casual summer get togethers and frivolous exploration of new things. It is a very straw gold color in the glass and gives off a slightly muted nose of citrus and rock. The palette however is much more expressive with lemon-lime flavors underlined by a dry white flower component and the always pleasant streak of salinity. The acidity of this wine, like most albariño worth it's price, is rather striking lending itself towards a very crisp and refreshing finish.


The verdict: The Paco y Lola is a very nice introduction to this varietal and really perfect for an al fresco dinner on a warm evening. At 13% alcohol it is not going to overwhelm, but has enough fruit and acid to hold up to a wide variety of fare (although I would drink it as an apertif just sitting on the porch personally.) This is one of a handful of these wines that you should be able to find widely, and all of them are south of $16. To be completely honest I have had other bottles of this grape that are more exciting, more expressive, and offer more of what makes me want this to be the wine of the summer. But Paco y Lola is certainly refreshing and true to its varietal. If you can find this one (and I think you can) I have no qualms recommending that you give it a try.


I encourage you to explore albariño if you have not done so in the past. If you are acquainted with this wonderful grape, then I encourage you to shout out suggestion in the comments. Summer 2011 is after all the unofficial year of albariño around here, so I could use all of the suggestions you got.



This wine was provided as a media sample with intent to review

It's Never Too Late to Rhône

Next weekend, April 28-30, marks the 19th annual Hospice du Rhone in Paso Robles, CA. Whereas there are many festivals celebrating the glory of a single grape (International Pinot Noir Celebration, Riesling Rendevous) HdR celebrates any and all things related to the 22 varietals that hail from the rugged Rhone valley in Southern France. Rhone grapes include viognier, roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc and more on the white side and syrah, mourvedre, grenache (noir), cinsault, carignane and more on the red side. These grape varietals make brilliant wines in the Rhone (think Cornas, Hermitage, Chateauneuf du Pape, even your insanely cost effective Cotes du Rhones) but have also transplanted well to regions around the world (think Australian Shiraz, Dry Creek Grenache, Paso Robles Roussanne). At Hospice du Rhone it is a downright party inclusive of all the Rhone expressions, in other words anyone who thinks they can Rhone is welcome. Here producers from Paso Robles mix with Oregonians, Aussies, French, Italian, Sonoma-ites (?) and even a producer from Alaska.

The weekend consists of seminars, lunches, auctions, large walk around tastings, and some guaranteed general mayhem. Word on the street (and I walk a diverse street at times) is that HdR is consistently one of the funnest, broadest, and most worthwhile wine events that winos attend each year. This is in large part due to the setting, the precise planning, and the casual spirit that these grapes inspire (or attract?) You see people get very serious about cabernet, or about their precious Burgundian varietals. And people get downright nerdy about the petrol in their riesling, but Rhone grapes inspire congeniality, experimentation, and pleasure. That is not to say that there will not be some very serious wines present, there will be, but they will be poured in environment that can only be created by a large and enthusiastic crowd celebrating the brilliant and mesmerizing misfits that are Rhone grapes.

Highlights of the weekend include Friday evenings Rhone Rendezvous, a walk around tasting featuring older and reserve vintages from some of the worlds finest Rhone producers. I see verticals of grenache, 12 year old roussannes, and some other very interesting options on the Producers guides. Tickets are still available online for $100, and will be available at the door for $110 if any remain.

Saturday from 3 to 6 pm is the Grand Tasting. During this tasting producers are given less stringent requirements on what they can pour (and how much), and many bring out a larger portion of their entire portfolio. This event allows you to taste some of the world's greatest Rhone all in one room in a way that no other single event will offer. You can speak with the proprietors and in many case the winemakers, and get a sense of the depth and expanse that these wines can offer.

Package options still exist that will give you further entry into the Rose lunch, the auction, the brilliant seminars highlighting Rhone efforts throughout the world, and the very popular Farewell BBQ. As an added attraction the HdR people take their food very seriously (as they should). All meal events have a carefully selected chef partner with serious chops who has spent months preparing perfect pairings for the related wines. Each of the tastings also has some very cool artisan food purveyors with samples that can be tasted between the wines.

Online ticket sales will come down after Tuesday April 26th, so do not delay if you are considering attending. Tickets will be available on site for the tastings only, and only if it is not sold out by then.

I realize that The Vino File does not generally cover events, and if you are not in California (or willing to hop a last minute plane) this might not feel particularly relevant. However that should indicate how strongly I feel about the worthiness of this event. If you can not make it this year I implore you to begin planning for next. The Paso Robles area makes a wonderful getaway in itself, and the quality and attraction of this event makes it a must see destination (at least once in your life) for anyone who thinks they can Rhone.

And one last thing. If you are attending (or even curious to further explore) you MUST download the iPhone app iRhone. This is far and away the most useful, best looking, wine event related app I have ever seen, further cementing that these HdR people are cool and know how to throw a party. Check it out.

Pasadena Wine Scene: Chronicle Wine Cellars

Today we have a new entry that combines my love for my city of Pasadena with my love for finding and exposing people to great wine. As a part of Greater L.A. Pasadena exists in the midst of so many wine shopping options that it can be overwhelming. There are the big guys down in Hollywood and West L.A. There are many cool bars that combine wine tasting experiences with retail options. But for my money and time there is really only one place to buy wine that captures the essence of friendly, laid back Pasadena in a way that quintessentially combines Pasadena's friendly conservative attitude, with their urban willingness to ignore idiosyncrasies and embrace new experiences. This place is Chronicle Wine Cellars, and there is truly no place like it.

Located in the bottom floor of a rather run down apartment building, it is impossible to stumble upon, and rather difficult to find even with one's first time determination. The only way to describe its location is that it resides literally right behind the Pasadena restaurant institution Pie and Burger. By right behind I mean right behind, as in down the Pie and Burger driveway and behind their kitchen door. You will know it is open as the proprietor Gus Martin will always have an American flag waving both at the main entrance and at the end of the driveway on California Blvd. The address for Chronicle will not help you, literally go to the NE corner of Lake and California Avenues and find your way behind the restaurant (about 40 yards East of the actual corner).

The shop is only a few hundred square feet and precariously packed with homemade shelves of plywood and 2 x 4s, old wine crates, and several hundred hand picked wines that Gus and his crew consider values for what the wine offers. This results in primarily labels you will not be familiar with, although there is often a couple of large production, more familiar wines at the absolute lowest prices I have ever seen them (for example a big Champagne house is regularly available for $29.95, when $36.95 is the BEST price I have seen elsewhere). Organized roughly into varietals the store is pretty well split between reds and whites with a small section for sparkling wines in one corner. Surrounding the wines are hundreds of dusty decorations ranging from empty bottles of Echezeaux to neon Schlitz signs, all interspersed with wonderfully descriptive shelf talkers generated by the staff of the store themselves (and occasionally taped on the shelves under the wrong wine). If it sounds eclectic and a bit disorganized it is, so that has to be part of the charm for this place to make sense to you.

The real reason the store has such a following, and a devotee in myself, is the care with which the wine for sale is chosen and the passion that comes through when working with the staff to make your purchases. Gus has a knack for finding wine that over delivers for the price, and keeping a great mix of wines from all over the world in stock. Many of the less expensive wines I have featured on these pages have come from Chronicle, and many of them have been recommendations from the Chronicle crew. You can get as much, or as little help as you want and can find something for Tuesday night pizza, or something to lay down for 15 years. In fact it is fair to say you will literally bump into your options upon walking through the door.

So while Chronicle is not the place to go if you are looking for something specific (I can save you the time, they will not have it). It is absolutely the place to go to stock up on values, things you haven't tried before, and great conversation about pre-war American jazz while you shop. It is the friendliest, happiest, and certainly most fun place to shop for wine in Pasadena, and if you don't like that you can always take your chances at Trader Joe's.

Where do you like to buy your wine, and why?

One Wine to Redeem Lodi (Maybe Two)

The story: I've been a Lodi skeptic, I'll admit it. I've had wines from Lodi that lacked distinction, wines that were too ripe, or too boring. I have certainly been influenced by talk of the lessor growing regions in the Central Valley. But like all good burgeoning wine geeks I have tried to keep an open mind.

Lodi has several folks who are actively working to increase the quality and reputation of the area. This is not because they could not grow their grapes, sell them into mass production, and make a living. This is because they feel that there is potential for Lodi to produce wines of high and distinct quality. Some of this passion is beginning to take hold with Lodi zinfandel regularly getting respect and attention. But there are trendsetters who are pushing beyond zinfandel as well.

I recently came across a producer in Lodi who is experimenting (quite successfully) with a range of Italian varietals. Uvaggio was started by Jim Moore, former winemaker at Mondavi and later Bonny Doon, Moore has always been fascinated by, and involved with, Italian varietals. As his own project, he has currently undertaken a rosato, vermentino, moscato (both dry and sweet), barbera, and primitivo sourced primarily from Lodi. He strives to make them taste true to their Italian heritage, keep their alcohol in check, and provide them at a reasonable price point. I have tasted several of Uvaggio's wines and found them to be incredibly expressive, balanced, and delicious.

The wine: The 2008 Moscato Seco comes in at 12.5% abv. The fruit is grown in Lodi and fermented dry making this alcohol level one of the key aspects that made me interested in trying this wine. The wine is a very pale, light yellow, with a subtle golden brilliance when given a spin. The nose is very expressive with peach and apricot, and a strong sense of tropical sweetness - both kiwi and papaya rather apparent. The aromas of this wine match very close to the Moscato d'Astis that I have had, and would indicate that the wine to follow is going to be sweet. Rather the palette is medium bodied, with cantalope melon and papaya flavors and a touch of spice. The wine is a bit waxy without being viscous, and finishes with a totally dry, and rather floral finish.

The verdict: A very appealing, very interesting, very different wine from anything I have been drinking. I love this wine. It is fresh and offers surprises from the low alcohol, to the explosive nose, to the mouthfeel. This is not a cookie cutter wine, and finds its stride in its willingness to live outside the lines of most bottles a California consumer will pick up. And it retails for around $13. I would be remiss to say that I possibly enjoyed the vermentino even more than this wine, just did not taste it in a controlled setting in which I took full tasting notes. Either way, these are exciting, innovative wines that display a true passion for exploration and expression, something many wines from the Central Valley lack. You are doing yourself a favor in exploring this exciting producer.

And to generate discussion, have you ever had a dry moscato? Which one, and what did you think?

It's Okay to Know What You Like

A quick post today to remind primarily myself, but possibly also you, of a major component in avoiding wine snobbery. Quite often wine enthusiasts are very passionate about wine. This inevitably leads to a desire to share this passion with those around us, but can also cause a bit of impatience when that intense level of interest is not as contagious as we might hope. The vast majority of my friends and family, while people who enjoy wine, do not care to think about it, talk about it, or stretch their limits of comfort on a regular basis. This situation manifested itself the other night when a group of friends went to a great little wine bar in San Francisco that touted its primarily French wine list. This bar features a build-your-own flight from 5:30 to 7:00 during the week, allowing patrons to choose three tastes of any of their extensive by the glass wines for only $10 (decent pours ensue by the way). I had a terrible time choosing, but ultimately settled on a Vouvray, a Vacqueyras, and a Cahors with mixed success. But I cringed as my friends searched the menu to isolate the few Sonoma wines they could find. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE many Sonoma wines, but I expect a desire to expand your palette. When in Rome...and all that shit. However my point today is that as wine nerds we must recognize that this is really our issue. Wine is about being social, about being fun, about exploring to your own comfort level and finding what you enjoy. If you enjoy Russian River pinots, and will for the rest of your life, have at it. If you enjoy seeking out something that you haven't tasted before, do the same. In the end I kept my mouth shut, and while I may have passively scratched my arms when they were ordering we had a great night, filled with everyone enjoying what they got. Two questions I would love to hear your thoughts on. If you are a wine geek, consumed by the obsession, what situations make you crazy inside regarding others wine habits? Or if you are just someone who likes to drink good wine, what attitudes or behaviors make you think someone is a wine snob? Have a great weekend everyone!!

Quick Trip to Bordeaux

The story: Bordeaux can be an intimidating land of extreme price ranges and confusing French words to those who don't spend some time to familiarize themselves with the complicated region. There are so many designations, 57 appellations, and over 10,000 producers. Mix into this the fact that most wine-producing Chateux were classified by their quality in 1855 with many changes occurring in growing and vinification techniques since then, and it can simply be overwhelming.

But it does not have to be, and in fact the sheer volume of production coming out of Bordeaux is enough to leave a wine lover the ability to explore for a lifetime. As we sit here today the wine world is focused on an annual event in Bordeaux called En Primeur. This event brings the worlds biggest buyers and critics to Bordeaux to taste through the most recent vintage (still in barrel) and make grand pronouncements about the quality of the vintage, which in turn creates hype, and allows the Bordelais to set future prices. Wines from the 2010 vintage will generally be shipped to the U.S. around 2013 (we're talking red and sweet wines of a particular quality, you can always get 2010's begining later this year for both white and simpler reds).

My advice on Bordeaux is to just dive in. Learn a bit about the major appellations and major houses that are producing wine. Then move on to search for producers that have developed a reputation for nice quality wine with consistency from vintage to vintage and a value driven price. I have listed two wines here that have developed a reputation for offering a taste of Bordeaux at a relatively affordable price.

The wine: The Chateau de Lamothe de Haux 2009 is a white Bordeaux made up of 40% sauvignon blanc, 40% semillon, and 20% muscadelle. It is a brilliant bright yellow with a nose of juicy apple, pear, and citrus. There is a beautiful chalk dust like component to the nose as well. It is a bright and acidic wine but surprisingly juicy in the mouth making it refreshing, food friendly, and interesting. The flavors are mostly reminiscent of golden apple with a decent punch of minerality on the crisp finish.

The 2003 Chateau de Reignac is 75% merlot and 25% cabernet sauvignon and while it lies outside of any recognized quality appellation, the house has been praised many years for producing wines of quality. The wine was a very dark black at its core, and fading to intense purple. The nose was bursting with plum and milk chocolate, although it suffered from a bit of alcoholic heat that did not blow off over time. All of these aromas were carried over an earthy, fresh dirt element that flirted underneath. On the palette the wine came across as medium bodied, full of dark fruit, and sporting tannins that had softened to a beautiful texture. It was beginning to show its age with integrated spicy oak that added to an overall creaminess, and roasted coffee, tobacco, licorice, menthol, and tar showing through.

The verdict: The white Bordeaux is available for under $15 and is really a lovely wine. I suggest it is a refreshing drink on a hot day, or with light appetizers and seafood. It is such a great balance between fruit and austerity that it is a perfect example of what classic French winemaking can offer.

The Reignac is from an older vintage, but the house has turned out very good wines for the money year after year, and almost always for under $20. At that price it is really a spectacular way to expose your palette to the joys of Old World merlot and cabernet sauvignon. This wine clearly deliniates the difference in its restrained fruit flavors, but imminently enjoyable and complex tertiary flavors.

In both cases I strongly encourage you to explore Bordeaux and what it has to offer.