Another edition of the Pasadena Society for Millennials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit is in the proverbial bag. The theme for September was sparkling wine, any category, any sweetness level, from any region. We were excited to try and break this category free from the 'celebratory' bonds that bind it, and I think we accomplished this. After a brief lesson on the typical methods of dissolving beautiful bubbles into our otherwise still wines we set into a long night of evaluation and elation. The wines, in order of my ranking, were as follow:
1. Henriot Blanc Souverain NV - Surprise, surprise - a true Champagne stole the show. Showing a rather rich and complex style, this wine stunned with apple and hazelnuts, intense minerality, and a bit of a smokey and very complex finish. I kept going back to this wine and thought it truly was worth the $38 price tag. For me this is a wine that clearly shows how Champagne can be mesmerizing.
2. Graham Beck NV Brut - I did not expect South Africa to show its head at this tasting, let alone bring such quality at such value. At south of $16 this dry sparkler, made of the traditional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, was very floral with apple and a dry honey tone that was delicious. Rivals a first place finish based on the supreme value that this bottle offers. While, not as good as the Henriot, this is probably my favorite find of the night and my biggest recommendation for you to seek out.
3. Domaine J. Laurens Cremant de Limoux Brut NV - From the South of France (near Languedoc) this wine is primarily Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Also a value at approximately $12, the nose is more citrus and hints at sweet pastry with its yeasty indications. A very nice wine for the price, if not stunning, for those inclined to drink bubbles regularly (and you should be) this is a great option.
4. Cerdon Renardat-Fache Bugey - From a rather obscure region in Eastern France, comes this rather unique sparkling rose wine. Made from 100% gamay, the first fermentation is stopped allowing a bit of sugar to remain. Since the yeast is not dead, a second fermentation occurs under pressure causing the wine to sparkle, or bubble, or however you prefer to refer. The result is a sweet, creamy wine with a very fine mousse that smells of strawberry candy and tastes of watermelon. It is very fun to drink and very pleasant, and yet rather simple. However, many would like this wine, and rightly so. It would make a great and surprising aperitif to start off a dinner party, and at 8% abv wouldn't get the night off on the wrong foot.
5. Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva - A wine I have had several times and always found to be a good value, this simple Cava brings exactly what you should expect. A bit of citrus and pineapple give way to a firm and mineral driven palate that is cleansing and crisp. Nothing spectacular, but nothing off putting, this $7 often gets touted as a 'Best Buy Value' and is a great option for large groups, or mimosas.
6. Paringa Sparkling Shiraz 2008 - Thrown in as a shocker, this certainly was. It smelled of grape soda and mint and drank of coffee, brown sugar, plum sauce and cough syrup. This wine might have been nice if it was fermented dry and kept still. Instead as an awkward and bombastic sweet sparkler it did not work. Certainly a conversation starter, but not something I can rightly recommend, nor in my lack of imagination find an appropriate setting for. Had it been dry it might have had some appeal, but as is - a major pass.
The overarching consensus was that sparkling wine is underrepresented in most people's regular drinking habits. There is a lot of diversity and lots of value to be found in these wines that can be served as before dinner drinks, with food, with dessert, or on their own for an afternoon happy hour. I am of the mindset that sparkling wines may be a bi-annual category for PSMIOFF, and I know no one who attends will be disappointed.
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