Cab Franc primer - while the genetic parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc is often less valued as it can be softer, less structured, and even a bit harder to grow. Many Cab Franc detractors complain about the 'green' aromas and flavors that can be present, while its admirers often look for this characteristic a bit. Overwhelming 'greenness' is rarely
praised, however, and generally a sign of the fruit not being picked at appropriate ripeness. Interestingly Cabernet Franc from Napa Valley was the most expensive, by ton, varietal purchased in the 2010 harvest. Cabernet Franc is also a major part of one of the world's most famous (and expensive) wines - Chateau Cheval Blanc.
Overall a fantastic lineup of wines made their way to this meeting, and of a diverse style. Any of these wines I could recommend, but alas everyone likes a winner. Listed below, in order of my ranking, I present the Cab Francs for the evening:
2007 Selvagrossa Poveriano - An Italian Cab Franc? Yes, and a great one. With a nose of dark berries and salted meat and a flavor profile of blueberries and Christmas potpourri this wine surprised and delighted. A great mix of Old World sensibility and New World fruit made this my favorite wine of the night.
2008 Dom. Grosbois Chinon - I'm a sucker for Chinon and this violet and green leaves over red raspberry nose got me excited. The palate also displayed red raspberry, licorice, and hints o
f baking spice. Throw in a refreshing dose of acid and you have an easy drinking but beautiful winner.
2007 Fielding Hills Cabernet Franc - Ah, a domestic Cabernet Franc that showed what Washington is doing with this grape. Completely different in style from the first two bottles, this wine was full of ripe blueberries, creamy vanilla, coffee and herbs. This wine carries a hefty 15%+ abv and had a bit of heat to the nose, but the palate was perfectly balanced by the telltale Washington acidity and tannic structure. Delicious and ripe this wine came through for the good ole' USA.

2007 Vinum Cellars The Scrapper - A 100% Cabernet Franc from El Dorado County, this is a big boy. The berry aromas are dark and masked by a bit of alcoholic heat, but also mixed with a distinct florality that was really nice. There is a lot happening in the flavors of this wine with dark fruits, vanilla, an earthy coffee ground aspect and some slightly awkward prickly tannin
s. This wine was also surprisingly delicious, and as the heat blew off over the night it turned into a wine I would recommend and purchase again.
2009 Ch. Soucherie Anjoy Vendages a' la Main - This wine came in last for me because the nose was a bit too musty, a bit too green. With raspberry fruit overlaid by hints of marijuana and mint, this nose would put many off and seemed a bit out of whack. The palate was more appealing with sour raspberry, and hints of spice and earth. There was a bitterness to the tannins that was not off putting, but certainly interesting, and the wine came off as very dry with a bit of a blunted finish. This wine was, for me, drinkable and even had elements of being pleasant, but overall it did not come together and stood a long way from the rest of the bunch.
Cabernet Franc seems to be a bit polarizing, in that it has its die hard devotees and the rest of the world seems to just overlook it. This tasting cemented for me that there is a diversity in offerings from the is grape, from around the world, and many of them are high quality, delicious wines at prices below some of the more popular varietals (just for reference all five wines retailed for between $19.95, and $30). I encourage you to try Cabernet Franc the next time you are at the wine shop or a restaurant.
Interesting lineup. Only Italian CabFranc I ever tried tasted like canned green beans--not fair to judge 'em all by one experience! I make a Cabernet Franc/Merlot blend and I do NOT like green eggs and ham, nor green wine. Ripe Franc is not green, but ripeness is all about those unique conditions that truly ripen long-hanging Franc. Scott - you're in Pasadena! You should come to the annual Cab Franc tasting at Mission Wine & Spirits on E.Washington--buyer there loves Cab Franc. I'll be there too (my wine is sold there).
ReplyDeleteI find quite a variety of styles by climate zone. Upvalley Napa Valley Francs get really big and lush (Crocker & Starr), and cooler-climate versions have a red-fruit freshness and lovely complexity.
I'm into the "right-bank" blending concept, like Cheval Blanc. (My 2007 is 71% Franc.) That's a fun tasting theme--get some Grand Cru St. Emilions and some CF/ME blends from New World. See if you too prefer the blends over straight Franc. Invite me and I'll bring a bottle of Virage; I'm in Pasadena once a month :)
Thanks Virage, and that sounds like a fantastic tasting theme (albeit expensive). I will certainly make an effort to come to Mission's cab franc tasting and hopefully get a chance to say 'hi' Do you know when it is?
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