One Last One for the Summer

The story: It cooled down around here this weekend, finally. Every year I have two giant reminders that Summer is over and Fall has begun. One day in early September I wake to a driveway ankle deep in tiny little tree branches and leaves that stick to your shoes. Dropped by ever increasing families of squirrels there must be something in that god damned tree that goes to seed this time of year, and no amount of sweeping is going to keep the backyard clean. It is a hopeless mess for a good three weeks, but a reminder that the season is changing. The second is my neighbor who goes ballistic for football (but never in a happy way) For the life of me I can't coordinate his screaming with any specific events, so I'm not yet sure which teams he likes and which he hates, but there is some passion there for sure. It makes for some Sundays during which I have to remind myself that an incomplete pass is equivalent to the death of a pet for some. I don't have to understand.

The transition to Fall invariably makes me start to pull back out some Zinfandel. I'm not much for drinking Zinfandel with BBQ during the summer, for many of the same reasons that I just can't listen to The Dave Matthews Band (it is not because they aren't talented musicians with catchy riffs, more of a personal need to buck the establishment) But I do find California's unique speciality to be a perfect wine for evenings in which I can still eat outside, but might need a big, fruity, warming red to cut the slight chill. As long as I can keep the leaves out of my glass, I find it to be a perfect time of year for this particular varietal.

The wine: The 2008 St. Francis Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma County is a dark translucent garnet color. It has a nice nose of black cherry, blackberries, a dusting of spice, some oak char, and a hint of the 15.5% abv alcohol (although not as much as to make it offensive). The palate is also filled with dark fruit, mostly berries up front, a bit of a hollowness in the transition, and then cola, ripe fruit, and classic Zin spice on the pleasantly sweet and lengthy finish. While it is a bit jammy, the wine holds itself together and displays classic California Zinfandel characteristics.

The verdict: This is exactly the type of Zinfandel I want to drink while dodging squirrel shrapnel and pigskin inspired outbursts on a beautiful L.A. Fall evening. It is big, and it is rather ripe, but there is a sense of balance and refinement that makes it decidedly drinkable. The previous vintage is still for sale, pending release of this bottle. Marked at $22 through the winery, I find this to be exactly in line with the expectations you can have for this wine. So whether lamenting the close of the Summer of 2011, or even if finding yourself out of control with emotions over the Seahawks, I recommend searching out a St. Francis Zinfandel. It is a perfect compliment to this time of year.

This wine was provided as a media sample with intent to review.