Tasting California's Alternative White Varietals

Tasting a wine in some context (i.e. alongside wines to which it can be compared) is one of the fastest ways to train your palate to identify the unique qualities that each bottle of wine provides. This can be difficult to do. First, it can get expensive fast - I'm not in a position to open hundreds of dollars worth of bottles just to 'experiment' and God bless you if you are. Second, when doing true evaluation you are not going to finish several bottles of wine on your own. Well you might, but the evaluation aspect of the whole experience will become a bit inauthentic. Here on The Vino File, I invented (yes invented) a solution - the Pasadena Society for Millennials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit. Essentially we started a wine tasting group, dedicated to education, evaluation, and fun. The results of these monthly meetings will be a nice list of wines that have been evaluated by a hip group of winos - brought to you for your reading or purchasing pleasure. (By the way, I'm not calling myself 'hip' but the others who attended most certainly are.)

Our first meeting focused on white wines of California that came from less common varietals. The rules -

• Bring any bottle of white wine that is varietally labeled and is not Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris (Grigio), or Riesling.
  


• If you bring Barefoot Sparkling Moscato you will be asked to leave
  


• Allow me to whine about how Riesling is only the 9th most common white grape crushed in 2010, and should therefore have been allowed at the tasting

Before the results of the tasting, since I'm sure that will induce you to run out to the wine shop, some interesting facts about the white grapes crushed in California in the 2010 vintage.

While Chardonnay was substantially the most common white grape at crush time, it was followed by French Colombard. This is a hearty, high yield grape used primarily in jug wine, and grown primarily in the hot and less than ideal Central Valley. There are not many boutique wines sporting 'French Colombard' on the label, but if you know of one please highlight it below. The most drastic increase in tonnage (by year over year percentage) from 2009 to 2010 was Picpoul Blanc. This is a bit skewed however, as none was reported in the 2009 crush report. I know that Tablas Creek is growing a bit of this grape and bottling it both varietally and in their Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, and there appears to be a miniscule amount crushed throughout the rest of the state. Albariño is interestingly also seeing a large increase, although the totals are still very small. The largest decrease was for the good old Verdelho grape, coming down to a paltry 299.4 tons statewide. While year to year statistics don't constitue a trend, as vintages affect different varietals differently, it will be interesting to see which of these changes continue into 2011.

(Generic millennial-esque model who apparently doesn't wish to swirl his wine)

The alternative white wine varietals tasted and evaluated, in order of my rating:

1. Abrente 2010 Napa Valley Albariño - Citrus, apple, and minerality with a rather herbal and saline palate. The acidity is bright in this wine by Bedrock's Morgan Twain Peterson. A bit of an experiment and a collaboration with Michael Havens who produced the first New World Albariño, this $20 bottle is distinct, delicious, and for me the wine of the night.

2. Palmina Arneis 2009 - I've spoken about Palmina's Italian varietal wines before, and how well Steve Clifton has done with these grapes that few others bottle varietally. This Piedmonte grape makes a wine with a deep honeyed, nutty, floral nose, with a bit of an ocean spray background. It drinks of tropical fruits, but is deeply savory and nutty with beautiful acidity. For only $18 this is a really spectacular alternative California white wine.

3. Barrel 27 'Sitting Pretty' Viognier 2010 - This is a big, fruity, expressive (and a bit hot) Santa Barbara County viognier. Ripe peaches, big mouthfeel, touch of oaky spice, and some nice minerality make this a crowd pleasing and delicious wine. It would have done even better for me if the alcohol was in check, but it burns a bit on the end. However it still tastes and smells excellent, and retails for a reasonable $18.

4. Tangent 2008 Edna Valley Albariño - With apricots and a bit of petrol on the nose, this is very different from the Abrente. There is a muskiness to the nose that is intriguing, and a peach flavor to the palate that is nice, but it is a bit watery and hollow in the middle, and the acidity feels kind of chunky. Pleasant, drinkable, even worth the $17 pricepoint, but not up to the Abrente standards for my palate.

5. Marjoram Grenache Blanc 2010 Camp Four Vineyards - This wine was challenged aromatically, and drank of peach, peach pit, and white flowers. A bit sweet and ending with a wave of alcoholic heat this grenache blanc was a bit ripe and fruity for me. This is the second Grenache Blanc I have had out of the Camp Four Vineyard, and the expression for me is just not balanced, too fruity, too sweet.

6. Leonesse Cellars 2010 Dry Muscat Canelli - This Temecula wine has a pleasant fruity nose showing lychee, peaches, and honeysuckle flowers. The palate is not as appealing in the dry alcohol flavors that overshadow the taste. There is a perfumy floral aspect to the palate, and a bit of citrus pith. For me, this wine is a pass at $18.

7. South Coast Winery 2008 Roussanne - Temecula should maybe not do Roussanne. Tomatoes, pickles, and celery salt on the nose led to a wierd, bitter coconut palate. Very unpleasant, and actually not drinkable, this is a major dumper. I'm all for experimentation, but when it doesn't work you should not sell it to people.

Wow, I realize now that all of these wines sell for $20 or under, and the first several offer outstanding quality. So while we had a great time expanding our palates I hope you will too, and look away from the common varietals for a bit of summertime exploration. Next month's meeting, by the way, Cabernet Franc from around the world. Can't wait!!