No Debate Needed

The story: There is a supposed debate occurring on the merits of different styles of Chardonnay. While I am convinced it is really only a 'debate' among the ultra-geeks who like to discuss wine way too much (myself included) the debate is aimed at the influence of oak in California's success with Chardonnay. Some would argue that the smokey, toasty, creme brulee bombs that have driven a specific category of the grape are unworthy manipulations, and there is something supremely righteous about a more pure expression of the fruit itself. This barrel influence only masks what nature does in the vineyard, whereas Chardonnay fermented in neutral barrels or better yet, in stainless steel, allow the true character of Chardonnay to shine. And it has to be said that this argument has resulted in more releases of 'naked' Chardonnay.

I declare today here on The Vino File that this does not need to be a debate at all. I say we can drink all styles of Chardonnay as long as they maintain a sense of balance, a perspective that is pleasing to your nose and palate, and an appropriate place in the environment in which you are enjoying the wine. It is true that excessive oak influence is unpleasant to me, a sign of laziness in the direction of the wine, and rather unwelcome. But so is a boring or astringent unoaked Chardonnay. The discussion, for me, is not on the merits of any given style, but on the quality and appeal of any given bottle of wine.

The wine: The Foley 2009 Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 'Steel' is a fully ripe expression of the grape and holds the typical alcohol percentage (for the area) of 14.3% by volume. It is a pale straw color with beautifully effusive aromas of golden apple, banana, brioche, and mango. The palate is rather juicy showing apple and pineapple fruit flavors and a rich full body, despite fermentation in 100% stainless steel and 0% malolactic. There is a nice dash of minerality to the finish of this wine, and just enough acid to avoid any sense of flabbiness.
The verdict: Not a spectacular wine by any means, but a tasty and structured example of what untouched Chardonnay can be. While the good and the bad of oak influence can be discussed ad nauseum, I would rather get nice examples of each from major areas of Chardonnay production and enjoy, and this is a perfect sample from Sta. Rita Hills. At $30 asking retail it may be a bit steep for what you get, but on the other hand it has the fruit and the unique expression that may fall right in your wheelhouse. If you are one who thinks you do not like California Chardonnay because of the butterscotch, the vanilla, or the smoke then this bottle is certainly worth your attention.

This wine was provided as a sample with intent to review.