Swill Automatic Highlights Israeli Wine

Tucked into a modern, urban, one-way street in the otherwise industrial East side of downtown Los Angeles, Swill Automatic is a relatively new wine bar and restaurant, offering adventurous Angelenos an eclectic and inviting environment in which to discover a cadre of unique tastes. Relying primarily on discreet enomatic machines, designed to encourage exploration, Swill Automatic features unusual selections for about $3-$5 per 2 oz. pour. They also feature a diverse and tasty menu of small bites ranging from the requisite cheese and charcuterie to widely praised bahn mi sliders, and dirty Gorgonzola mussels.

For this week only Swill Automatic becomes Bar Mitzvah and presents a 5 course tasting menu of Israeli food, matched with some of the superstars of the burgeoning kosher wine scene coming out of Israel. This is a fantastic opportunity to find some pleasurable, generally unavailable wines, as well as introduce yourself to the unique cuisine of an area that is generally underrepresented in the American restaurant landscape.

On opening night the service was friendly and attentive, and while the wait staff is not accustomed to such a menu and this type of dinner service making timing on the courses a bit awkward, their sincere effort was noted and appreciated. Every dish was well executed and tasty, and the matching wines ranged from pleasurable to noteworthy.

First up was a nibbler of spicy olives and traditional bread. This was paired with the Shvo 2009 Rose, a 100% Barbera rose that was ripe and fruity. While it lacked a bit of acidity for my palate there were tasty grapey notes, floral tones, and bright red fruit. Having never had a rose of Barbera I found the wine a bit simple, but refreshing, and the fruitiness and mild tannins were tasty with the olives.

Starter choices include Baked Lamb Patties in Tahini or Mejadra, a really earthy and delicious mix of seasoned lentils, friend onions, and rice. This is paired with two wines from Pelter in the Golan Heights. The Pelter 2010 Sauvignon Blanc was a bit of a pass for me, as the retiscent nose and rather lackluster flavors just didn't bring it. The wine was crisp and refreshing, but lacked excitement, which was a shame because the paired Mejadra was really delicious. The Pelter 2009 Trio (a blend of Bordeaux's Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc) was completely the opposite, bold, rich, full bodied and brimming with dark berries and earth. The finish was a bit oaky, a bit coffeed, and very delicious. With the dark meaty lamb patties this was a beautiful pairing, and my suggested selection for this course.

A salad course included delicious marinated carrots with spicy curry flavors, and shaved fennel with roasted pistachio. The pairing here was the Tulip 2007 Syrah Reserve. Also big, extracted, and oaky there was enough balance in this wine to hold it together. Reminiscent of an Australian Shiraz, the jammy fruit flavors and bold wood might be too much for some. Instead I found it rather enjoyable, and surprisingly effective with the strong and acidic flavors of the salads, a nice intermezzo to the large meal.

Main course options included a Spicy Chicken Shawarma with Aromatic Persian Green Rice, or the Spinach, Leek, and Feta Shakshuka with Couscous. The Shakshuka was the standout dish of the night, with rich egg yolk and feta contrasting well with the bitter green spinach, and chewy couscous providing a beautiful textural contract. This was paired with the Flam 2007 Reserve, a Cabernet Sauvignon that was also the standout wine of the night. All 3 red wines were big and bold, but this Cabernet had an elegance and restraint that was stunning. There were elements of dark berry, but also higher toned red fruit, and my requirement of bright acidity to balance and close out the wine on your palate. A great dish and great wine that lead into an intense, different, but tasty dessert of pistachio halvah and compote of dried fruit.

Swill Automatic is a necessary destination for wine seeking visitors to or residents of Los Angeles. Getting there this week will allow you to explore a fascinating cuisine and emerging wine region, for a fair price of $66. Whether you make it soon, or put it on your future list, Swill Automatic is a great spot with a cool vibe, and well worth your evening out.

Disclosure: I was an invited guest of Swill Automatic for this meal.