Get Them Before They're Gone

The story: The 2007 vintage in Southern Rhone was critically lauded as oustanding. This (like most things in the geeky world of wine) is not accepted universally without controversy. Most will agree the wines were big, ripe, rich, but balanced. And yet some have maintained that this is a departure from the classic style of areas like Chateauneuf du Pape, and represents a move to appease the palates of the critics. If this move feels like betrayal to you, a degredation of tradition, and an act that only serves to consolidate and globalize a big bold style of wine then you are clearly in the second camp. If you don't really care about these types of conversations, as the long as the wine maintains a high level of quality and a deliciousness factor for you to enjoy then you should buy up this vintage. You don't have much time left, the last of the 2007's are pushing their way through the marketplace, with most shelves clearly updated even to 2009 (2010 for many of the whites and roses)

Gigondas is an AOC in Southern Rhone that produces red wines made from primarily Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. Only departing from its former Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages designation a mere 40 years ago (that isn't that long in French winemaking history) Gigondas is praised for its powerful red wines that match deep fruit with earth, herbs, and that attractive Rhone garrigue. Generally this can all be had for well south of $40, making Gigondas a rather popular buy both at retail and on restaurant wine lists.

The wine: Perrin et Fils Gigonda 'La Gille' 2007 is a deep garnet purple in the glass. The nose offers up boysenberry and kirsch fruit flavors with a striking licorice and fennel spice component. After opening you can find a nice underlying smoked herb component that balances out the fruit, and makes a deep inhalation necessary before every sip. Waves of flavor through the palate include sweet dark jammy berries, licorice, and an intense mouth coating earthy finish with a streak of beautiful minerality. A big wine, but a balanced wine the tannins are powerful yet integrated.

The verdict: This wine is clearly a winner. The fruit is delicious, the tertiary flavors are compelling, and the structure is there to hold it all in place. For around $27 I can't recommend this enough. This is certainly enjoyable now, but has the components to last a couple more years in your cellar and give you a reminder of what the critics raved about in Southern Rhone 2007.