Robert Mondavi Winery: Napa Valley Classics

The story: Fill in the blank - Robert Mondavi is to the success of California wine as __________ are to the success of Catholicism. If you answered 'paintings of naked cherubs' you are not only keenly knowledgeable about both Renaissance art and the history of Napa Valley, but also on a fast track to being my friend. In reality Mondavi, a second generation Italian immigrant who grew up in Lodi, CA, has had a profound impact on the world of wine. After splitting from his joint venture, Krug, with his brother Peter, he established the first major post-prohibition vineyard in Napa Valley. This vineyard, To Kalon, continues to produce fine wine known the world over. Mondavi also started wine labels at all levels of quality and price, introducing his Woodbridge and Private Selection labels, and even partnering with Baron Philippe de Rothschild to start the iconic Opus One. It is difficult to estimate what these wines, and his enduring commitment to being a California wine ambassador, have done for the California industry over the last 50 year. In 2008 the Robert Mondavi empire was purchased by Constellation Brands and is no longer under the family's control, however the label and the man's influence has not waned.

Some of the best Mondavi wines are put out under the Robert Mondavi Winery Napa Valley label. Made by Wine Enthusiast winemaker of the year, Genevieve Jannsens, these are wines of high quality, and a higher price point, that are uniquely Napa in style. Labeled varietally they range from the excellent value Napa Valley Wines, to the more narrowly produced Reserves. These wines should not be confused with the Private Selection California Coastal bottles most commonly seen at eye-level at your local market. These wines are often highly rated, well made examples that should be sought out by the connoisseur.

The wine: The Robert Mondavi Napa Valley 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon presents a rather classic aroma profile of black cherry, plum, some mint and tar, and just a touch of heat (the wine is 15% abv after all). The palate is filled with persistent dark fruit held by a great, soft, but present tannic structure, peeks of sweet oak, cassis, and a chocolatey finish that really lasts. The wine has nice acid that keeps it from coming across too big or too fruity.

The Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Fume Blanc Reserve To Kalon Vineyard 2009 is a very pale but brilliant gold in the glas. The nose gives off whafts of pineapple and sweet citrus zest, over a slightly herbal lemon grass quality. Tropical fruits, with hints of creamy vanilla fill the rather juicy taste profile, but the acid is sharp and the wine does not become flabby. The finish is beautifully citric as it fades in a rather long finish.

The verdict: These are both wines that stay true to their classic expressions of the Napa Valley. The Cabernet has a suggested retail of $28, and while not yet released this label can often be found closer to the $22 mark. It is the real deal, offers great quality for the price, and will be sure to please your California wine drinking friends and family.

The sauvignon blanc seems a bit more complicated for me to recommend. It is lovely and delicious, but the suggested retail on the wine is $40. I really liked this wine, and my friends who tasted also commented it was a great wine. However, it is my opinion that there are several Sauvignon Blancs available for well less that offer the drinker just as much. If you have the money, or really prefer your Sauvignon Blanc slightly ripe and slightly oaked (both in rather perfect balance however) then it is worth a try.

The wines were received as media samples with intent to review.