Couldn't Be More Different

The story: I was recently reminded that the BEST way to learn about wine (with full freedom to enjoy it along the way) is to set up comparison tastings. Choose wines of the same grape but different regions, or the same region and different grapes, or hell the same wine but different vintages. It is in these comparisons that you can learn the most about how terroir, decisions in the cellar, or even varietal differences influence what is in your glass. The exercise will be fun, but also focus you in on what you like, on what is available.

Chardonnay offers you ample opportunities to find drastically different expressions. In my most recent comparison I contrasted a 2009 Macon with a 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay. The Macon region of Burgundy produces minerally, crisp, almost light versions of the grape with little or no oak influence. While Napa is also experimenting more and more with no oak, or very balanced oak influence, these wines are notoriously much riper, fruitier, rounder, and richer versions of Chardonnay.

The difference between the two wines could not be more pronounced. The same grape can produce wines that are distinctly orchard fruit-like, apples and pears, or lean heavily into tropical fruits like pineapple and papaya. The palate can be filled with chalky, rocky minerality, or butterscotch and toast. Both versions are valid and have a place, it is in the exploration and the enjoyment that they really matter.

The wines: The Larochette Manciat Macon Les Morizottes 2009 is a peachy gold in the glass with scents of lemon, golden delicious apple, and smoky herbs. The palate brings juicy apples that transition beautifully to a minerally and citric finish. The medium bodied wine has beautiful acidity, and the flavors of applesauce and mineral last for an impressively long time.

The Beringer Private Reserve 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay is a much deeper, rich yellow. The nose is much bigger, full of pineapple upside down cake, dark burnt sugar, and hints of the 14.9% alcohol. The wine is full bodied and almost viscous with flavors of olive oil, citrus oil, spicy oak, buttery pastry, and papaya. There is a legitimate and tasty mineral streak in the bombastic and smokey finish.

The verdict: Both wines are very well made, and very expressive of their exact intentions. The Macon can be found for around $15 and is a great summer wine, a salad wine, but also has enough flavor interest to be drank by itself. I love the acid, and the rocks, and highly recommend this wine.

The Beringer comes in at a higher price point ($30), and higher octane level. It is delicious, interesting, and truly Californian. While I have a slight concern with the obvious heat in the nose, you will not find it in the palate, and despite the reputation of bomb-y California wines there are a myriad of food pairing options. I served this with a chicken pot pie, and I must say it killed.

Both of these wines are well worth your attention. I wouldn't have guessed that Chardonnay would constitute two of the better wines I have tasted this month, but here they are. And do compare, it gives you an excuse to open at least two bottles, at the very least.