Napa vs. Sonoma: A Showdown

A recent event in San Francisco pitted 15 Napa based wineries against 15 Sonoma based wineries and declared a full on, to the death fight (cirrhosis obviously being what took down most participants). The goal was to taste as many of the approximately 120 wines being poured and declare a supreme region, which area was showing better and bringing the juice. While in the end the event was really for fun, and no such victor arose, it was a perfect example to show people how the vastly different terroirs found throughout Northern California's wine regions each excel at their own varietals and styles, and why deciding who is better overall really is an impossible task. I'm sure you will not be surprised to find that the best wines of the night were split right down the middle. Here they are for your perusing, or possibly purchasing pleasure:

Best sauvignon blanc - I loved the Round Pond 2010 Sauvignon Blanc. Certainly showing ripe flavors of grapefruit and some tropicality this is a Napa Valley sauvignon blanc, which is not always my thing. This wine had the acid to stand it up, and a lot going on in the palate and was really delicious.

Best chardonnay - the 2009 Demuth Chardonnay is an old vined chardonnay grown high on the eastern side of the Anderson Valley. What results is a crisp, minerally chardonnay that gets very little oak and tastes incredibly fresh. Green apple and a bit of pineapple bring the fruit, and refreshing and interesting mineral notes take it through to the end. A really delightful chardonnay for those who like their chard a bit more serious.

Best pinot noir - The Chronicle Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley 2007 Pinot Noir is a stunner. The beautiful mouthfeel combines with berry, cedar, spice, herbs, dried leaves, and a very serious structure making this the finest pinot in the room. This is not a wine to drink daily, it is a wine to put away for awhile, but one that will reward your investment with its complexity and finesse.

Best zinfandel - Also from Chronicle the 2008 Bacigalupi Zinfandel sources its fruit in the Russian River Valley off of vines that are over 100 years old. Struggling to ripen this fruit is picked late in November when it finally reaches ripeness, and at very low brix for zinfandel. Owner Mike Hengehold was indicating that this vineyard is only producing about 3/4 of a ton of fruit per acre. The wine is really amazing, and a perfect wine for those who think California zinfandel is generally overblown for their palette. There is a lightness to this wine that is filled in with earthy and spice notes reminiscent of many cold climate wines. It also carries itself with finesse, and is really a beautiful wine.

Best syrah - I can't help but go back to a wine I found early on in my wine exploration, but which again showed extraordinarily well in this crowded room, the Unti 2007 Benchland Syrah. With notes of smoke and meat, there is a rather focused blackberry fruit component that makes this structured wine very enjoyable to drink now. However there is a level of complexity to the herbs and tertiary flavors that I think will reward a bit of patience on this recently released wine as well.

Best merlot - There were a handful of nice merlots in the room, often inappropriately poured with an explanation about people's resistance to the grape. But the 2007 Swanson Oakville Merlot was poured without an explanation, and with a smile of understanding that they had crafted a wine that shows why this varietal was so popular for so long. Very lush in its texture, and brimming with the cherry and chocolate notes that make merlot so appealing, this wine was balanced and delicious. It is the type of wine that makes you glad that the unfair bias against merlot keeps price points in a very favorable range.

Best cabernet sauvignon - A toss up here, which is no surprise since both Sonoma and Napa can make very different but very good cabernets. I loved the 2007 Clajeux Cabernet Sauvignon from Demuth Kemos. The fruit comes from a steep and rocky vineyard in Chalk Hill and displays a rather Bordeaux like nose and palate with pencil lead, bits of black fruit (although rather restrained) and intense structure.

On the Napa side of the mountains I found the Signorello 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon to show a lot of character. The wine was rather full of red and black berries but had mellow tannins and nice depth. Delicious to drink now, or for a couple of years, this wine was not overblown which can be my critique of some Napa Valley cabernet.

So my conclusion is that regions reign supreme only for what they can do well, and should be encouraged to do so. While I personally might prefer the laid back vibe of Sonoma for a visit, I will also stock my cellar with some of the best of what Napa has to offer at every opportunity. A great event, offering a great chance to prove out that when a location finds the grapes that grow well in their unique terroir, they can produce great wines.