
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Food and Wine Are Made for Each Other

Monday, August 30, 2010
Who Doesn't Love a Monastrell from Jumilla?
The story: When you think of 'cult' wines you generally think of big Napa Valley cabernets that come out of the gate at over $100, and while delicious and often impeccably created they are often purchased out of prestige as much as quality. But there also tends to be a whole lesser known market of inexpensive bargain wines that gain a devoted following. I am often less than surprised to discover that one of these wines is from Spain. Spain is consistently turning out delicious wines that are widely available and cost well under $20.While regions like Rioja and Xerez have strong traditions that dictate how wine is to be grown and made, many lesser know regions of Spain (Campo de Borja, Jumilla, and Yecla for example) have more freedom to experiment, and are producing bold wines that beautifully straddle the Old World and New World stylings. A visit to a wine shop with a nice Spanish section will result in some great finds, at a great price point.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Unti Vineyards: Natural Wines from Dry Creek
So what does this produce? In my experience this produced very food friendly, and expressive wines. I thank that many sommeliers must agree because I am seeing their wines on more and more lists throughout the City.
The 2007 Zinfandel seems to be getting a lot of attention lately (media, scores, etc.) It is Unti's most fruit forward of the lineup, and is possibly starting to sit back a bit now. This allows the wine to display its rather intense concentration, but also some great acidity from a splash of Barbera that was added for this very purpose. Tasted after a some stops in Dry Creek Valley for a callibration to the classics zinfandels of the area, this one joins right in and yet maintains the structured stamp of an Unti wine.Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Tasting British Columbia

Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Quickest Ways to Sound Old-School

1) Call it juice. Not every time but now and then refer the wine as juice.
2) Always when mentioning chardonnay remind readers that you don't like butter or oak.
3) Remember, any noun can become an adjective by adding 'ed' (i.e. mushroomed, cigared, funked)
4) Regret that you are scoring, but score away.
5) Remind everyone around you that you are not a wine snob, you are down to earth. It is better to say this right before you explain why Beaujolais Nouveau is really only acceptable if you recognize it for its frivolous, and less than serious drinkability.
6) All fruits have taste characteristics directly related to their color or what type of bush they are grown on. Thus blue and bramble are much more focused descriptors than they may appear.
Please jump in here at any time.
By the way, I am the first to be guilty of using all of these things, and will probably include some of them in tomorrow's post. After all, nobody influences a culture completely from the outside, and honestly the people in around the wine culture have been truly amazing people, quirks, idiosyncrasies, homogeneous tendencies, and all.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Impressions of Washington: Syrah
Syrah has not had a particularly long history in Washington. The first block was planted in only 1986 by Mike Sauer, owner of the Red Willow Vineyard and David Lake MW, who believed syrah could be successfully grown and vinified in Washington. In fact, that first planting was the source of the Betz wine below. Bob Betz himself was instrumental in showing the rest of Washington, and the world, that syrah was a very viable option for the region.
The syrahs I found in Washington shared many of the upsides and downsides of the other big red wines. There were examples that were overripe and flabby, and several that had too much wood influence. However, when they were on they were perfectly structured, had great acidity, and beautiful dark berry flavors layered with earth, smoke, and leather. In other words there were some outstanding Washington syrahs. I would have to say that syrah, while an acknowledged favorite, was the stand out surprise for me in Washington. My favorites include:
Des Voigne Cellars 2007 Montreux - 100% syrah from 4 different vineyards, this wine gave smokey vanilla on the nose, and big blackberry and black pepper across the palette. It was a big wine but had enough structure to hold together and drink oh so smooth. Only 184 cases were produced of this wine, but it is available from the winery for $30.
Smasne Cellars Block 3 Syrah 2007 - Co-fermented with viognier (in true Northern Rhone fashion) this is a bottle of syrah good enough that superstar winemaker/consultant Robert Smasne has his own name on it. (He is the consulting winemaker for over 20 WA wineries) Tasted in a lineup of smashing syrahs this one stood out, and really has great aromatics from the viognier co-fermentation. It is available from the winery for $35.
Skylite Cellars 2005 Syrah - Tasted in a vertical it was the one with a bit of age that stood out. The tertiary flavors are playing well with the fruit at this point, and it has softened into a great texture. Some prefered the younger 2007 that was also poured, but for my $32 this is the year to drink now.
Distefano 2004 Santa Maria - A syrah forward Rhone blend, also blended with viognier, this wine had more dark cherry flavors, and a coffee finish with a bit of dusty dried fruit. Really nice for the price at $27.99.
Doyenne 2007 Aix - 61% syrah, 35% cabernet sauvignon, and 4% mourvedre this wine features outstanding earthy elements, coupled with delicious blackberry. The cabernet seems to give this wine a very structured feel, and this is one I would let sit for a couple of years. Doyenne is the Rhone focused arm of DeLille cellars, and the Aix is available from the winery for $34.
But the star of the week is Betz Family Winery 2008 Syrah La Cote Patriarche - 100% syrah, this wine is young, and powerful. To be released in October of this year, if you have an allocation you would be crazy to miss this wine. It is earthy, leathery, full of fruit, and has so much structure it is almost overwhelming. Put this one in the cellar, the 50% new French oak will integrate, the tannins will relax (yup big tannins for a syrah), and you will have an absolutely amazing bottle of wine. This wine is expected to be released at $55.

Rumors abounded around the Wine Blogger's Conference on other great syrahs, particularly from Walla Walla. Several bloggers have commented on K Vintners, Amavi Cellars, and Rotie Cellars. I think the point is that Washington can do syrah, and do it well. Whether you seek out one of the mentioned bottles above (for my palette all are worth their price), or find whatever is available for you locally, if you like a little smoke, a little earth, or a little black pepper with your fruit then you should try Washington syrah.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Highlights from the Rhone Rangers tasting

Justin 2008 Savant Red Blend - Another syrah blend, from another well respected Paso Robles producer. Savant is blended with Justin's better known Bordeaux varietals cabernet sauvignon, and malbec. It is sold out at the winery but available elsewhere for around $36.
Katin 2007 Syrah, Michaud Vineyard, Chalone - One of 3 syrahs from an awesome project highlighting the grape from various locations along the West Coast. This one is the warm climate (not hot) version from Monterrey County. I am going to write about the project as a whole, but this wine is worth a purchase just to get a sense of how great the Katin syrahs are. You will have to call the winery to inquire as it is very low production, available at $45.
Koehler 2008 Viognier - A very peachy but delicious version of this ubiquitous Central Coast white Rhone, available for only $18.
Qupe 2008 Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate - Absolutely rich expression of roussanne with amazing complexity and minerality. My favorite white wine of the day, available at $30.
Qupe 2006 Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate - Look, Qupe winemaker Bob Lindquist has essentially perfected the art of crafting New World syrahs that express both great fruit and great earth, spice, and savory flavors. This one for only $30 is outstanding.
Qupe 2008 'Sonnie's' Syrah Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard - A new release coming out of a new vineyard for Qupe this syrah displays the cooler fruit from the Edna Valley, and does it justice. Earthy and complex, and worth the $35 price tag.
Tablas Creek 2008 'Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc' White Blend - Rich and citrusy, this is a very bright Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Picpoul Blanc blend that is incredibly delicious and complex. Fruity, minerally, spicy, and savory this wine is available from the winery for $40.Tercero 2007 'Cuvee Christie' Red Blend - Syrah, grenache, and mourvedre from winemaker Larry Schaffer offers red fruit and spice with noticeable structure. The quality of this wine among the peers in the room make its $28 price tag quite a value.
Tercero 2007 Mourvedre Camp 4 Vineyard - Another wine out of the Fess Parker Camp 4 vineyard, this was a earthy, dark and intriguing mourvedre. This was the wine that made me very interested in exploring more of Tercero's wines next time I am in Los Olivos. This wine is also $28.
Unti Vineyards 2006 Syrah Benchland Dry Creek Valley - Lets hear it for a Sonoma example of cooler climate syrah, with smoked meats playing throughout the dark berry fruit flavors. Available from the winery for $35.
Alright, 16 wines might seem like an unrealistic recommendation. But I did try to narrow it down from 160. Also, you should know that these are stand outs from what I was able to taste, a wine's absence from this list does NOT mean I did not like it, I may not have tasted it.
These suggestions will give you a stellar idea of what these American Rhones can be. At the very least expose yourself to Rhones, they will become a welcome part of your wine experience.
Monday, August 9, 2010
The Old Place (and too many parentheticals)
I don't really review restaurants, although I probably have about as much business doing so as I do reviewing wine. However a stumble the other afternoon necessitates a recommendation, and it has little to do with wine (sort of).
So why do I even bring this stop up on the blog? Because the tasting room experience was coupled with a stop at the very funky The Old Place restaurant right next door was such a unique L.A. experience I want people to give it a shot. The Old Place is a small, dark, old west saloon inspired place that makes you forget your near the big dirty city, and offers some great food and wine. While only a few miles off the 101, this is the kind of restaurant where you sit on a bench with everyone else, and the bar tender chats you up and offers a carrot out of her garden down the road (yellow carrots, not orange). You then are asked if you want to taste through a few of the by the glass offerings until you find something you like. The wine list includes Malibu wines, but also other California options to round it out. This is the type of place where you can order homemade mac and cheese that will drip with butter and gruyere, or a big bucket of steamed clams. For our afternoon snack we received two beautiful lobster tails accompanied with local sage and browned butter (just something the fish guy had in stock that morning.) I don't know how to describe how comfortable, familiar, dressed down and delicious this place comes across. It is just the right food, done by the right people, in the right place.Friday, August 6, 2010
The Night I Lost My Palette
Talking on and on about things that would make non-wine enthusiasts yawn or mutter phrases under their breath with the word 'geeks' littered throughout, we entered the first tasting room. I walked up to the young lady pouring the Amavi Cellars Les Collines Syrah 2007. We tasted, we spat, and my friends gushed over the red fruit and sagey goodness. I though, hmmm, I must not have swirled it hard enough because it tasted like metallic dust. Taste number two was the same. I wasn't sure what was up, but thought I might have some brownie residue on my tongue or something. What is wrong with me? I hoped that it wasn't something the beautiful wines of Sleight of Hands Cellars couldn't cure, but it was the same.
I was starting to get pissed. A whole world of awesome wine open to us for the next several hours and I literally can't taste anything. Psychosomatic? Who knows, but a real experience? Certainly.
I walked back to the Marcus Whitman hotel, frutstrated, and slightly concerned. Spread out on the table in the lobby where all of the remaining wines from the earlier white wine speed tasting rounds offered at the conference. I had an idea. I would nurse my palette back from the brink with an expressive, fruity, soft couple of swishes from the Mollydooker Violinist Verdelho. Uh oh, lemon water. Now if you know this wine you know that it has amazing fruit characteristics. I went upstairs to my room thinking that possibly I'm just weak. Maybe I suck at tasting multiple wines. Maybe I'm catching a horrible cold that has no other side effects. I don't know.
Thank God the room was too depressing to sit in. I sat for about a half an hour organizing the hundreds of business cards I'd collected, and realized I just couldn't do it. If I couldn't enjoy the wines, I ought to at least enjoy the winos. I needed to be out there. I got up with determination, grabbed my The One red glass from Andrea Robinson, and walked briskly back out into the night. I ended up stopping in the first room I came to, Skylite Cellars, and spent the next hour tasting through their lineup, finding joy in the lushness of the fruit, the spiciness of the malbec, and meatiness of their syrah. It was the 2006 Skylite Reserve that truly pulled me back from the brink.
So it was back. I can't explain where it went, it hasn't happened before, or since. Have you ever temporarily lost your palette? Any known explanations about what may have happened?
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
A Couple of Oregon Whites
I believe there is so much diversity in white wines you could spend years just appreciating the differences between chardonnay, viognier, albarino, torrontes, semillon, well you know the list. So I'm excited to find new white wines that I like and can recommend.
I've talked about Oregon pinot noir on this site several times. I even declared Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Founder's Reserve Pinot Noir to be the outright winner of the #PinotNoir twitter tasting smackdown recently. But I haven't talked about any white wines from Oregon. That changes now:
Willamette Valley Vineyard 2008 Pinot Gris - This pale straw colored wine gives off lemon citrus and pear in the nose. Mingling in the aromas is also a bit of cotton candy sweetness and a touch of white flower petals. The wine tastes of dry citrus and pineapple, with more floral and mineral notes across the middle and a crisp pear finish. Consumed both alone and with food, this is a nice food wine, with a taste profile that offers just enough complexity to keep it interesting. A very respectable wine at $15. Score: 3/5

Willamette Valley Vineyard 2008 Riesling - If you read me you know I'm a sucker for riesling, and this one does not disappoint. Rated as medium sweet on the International Riesling Foundation taste profile scale, this pale yellow wine with a slight green tinge offers up apple, peach, and something that distinctly reminds me of the apricot/pineapple preserves my grandma used to make for me as a kid. There is a touch of wet stone and flint going on as well, which is a riesling trait that I can not get enough of. Drinking the wine I got ripe pineapple up front, a tantalizing bit of minerally citrus across the mid-palette, and an orange juice and limey finish with bright acidity. This wine was hands down delicious, it was sweet but not cloying, acidic but not sharp. This might be one of my best buys of the year, at only $12 from the winery (even less elsewhere) I think this wine is amazing. Score: 4/5
So I used to be embarassed to drink much white wine, and I probably used to be embarassed to suggest a wine that is slightly sweet, but now I know better. These wines will bring joy to those who sit back and partake.
These wines were received as media samples, with the intent to review.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Context Is Everything (Or At Least Relevant)
D and I shared a bottle of wine in front of some really mindless shows on Animal Planet the other night, and while a very relaxing night it got me thinking about context. First, just because two things are successful in their own context does not mean that the combination of those two things will be exponentially successful. This is a common mistake that people in business or creative development make which have resulted in amazing failures like Crystal Pepsi, the XFL, and Harley Davidson perfume. I know, who doesn't like purity, cola, cheerleaders, football, motorcycles, and smelling nice? Context matters people. What got me thinking along this line was some brilliant producers creative meeting in which they stated 'Shows about little people are popular, and animal rescue shows are popular. How about a show about little people who rescue animals?' And somehow this got green lighted all the way along a creative team, all making big bucks I'm sure, and ended up on my t.v. I like little people shows, and I love rescue dogs (I'm sitting with one now) but there is no compelling context to put them together.