A New Day, A New Grape

The story: I have had this nagging feeling inside that I am ignoring Italy on this blog. I can rationalize it away saying that I have had too many bad Chiantis and am scared of the prices on some of what Italy has to offer, but it is probably more laziness and miseducation. Luckily this little beauty was forced upon me recently at a dinner with friends. Albana is a white grape, from the Albana di Romagna region (which was made a DOCG somewhat controversially in 1987). The controversy surrounded the general idea that while Albana made some nice and distinct wines, they were possibly of a lower quality than some of Italy's more well known DOCG's. DOCG is Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita, and just represents that the given area uses given varietals under strict guidelines.

The albana grape is made into a variety of styles from dry to sweet, and generally is prized when offering smooth texture, crisp acidity, and a distinct nuttiness. Like many wines of distinct origin the wine is known to pair nicely with the food and cheese of Emilia-Romagna (cured pork products anyone?)

The wine: The Tre Monti 2009 Vigna Rocca Albana Secco is a substantial 14% abv and a quite brilliant deep gold, with hues of orange. The nose is lovely, and expressive with waves of peaches, white flowers, and honey. The wine tastes of caramel, zesty lime spritz, and a dry vanilla. The texture of the wine is surprisingly different with both the taste and mouthfeel of a gravelly minerality, and a long almost prickly stoney finish. There is an essence (not overwhelming) of bitter pithy citrus throughout the mid-palette and into the finish that keeps the wine from crossing into sweet.

The score: This wine was elegant without being verbose, fruity without being a bomb, and generally delicious. It was also quite distinctive (justifying the DOCG? Maybe?). It was a wine that I enjoyed with dinner, and on a hot porch with friends. The albana seemed to gently reprimand my ignorance of Italian wine both in its quality, flavor profiles, and price. Available for ~$14 this wine is one to try. I can't overemphasize the beauty of the color, and the distinctness of the flavors. This wine receives a score of 3.5/5.