Obviously as a Californian I live in a great wine producing state. But living in L.A. I am not exactly surrounded by fine wine destinations (talking production, not Wine Spectator Award restaurant lists people). I'm not complaining as I do have relatively easy access to much of the U.S.' great wine (easy direct shipping, 4 hours to Paso Robles, 1 hour flight to Napa/Sonoma). I'm just saying that Southern California is not exactly where a lot of this stuff is going on. There are however a few regions locally that are trying, with some success (and many struggles) to grow great grapes in Southern California. Malibu has a few wineries, Temecula is becoming quite a wine tasting destination, and more recently a small band of determined souls have started making wine in the Ramona Valley, in northern San Diego County.One such maverick couple is Dennis and Julie Grimes. Owning property in the west Ramona Valley, and having a desire to something outside of their day jobs that would take advantage of their agriculturally zoned land, the Grimes planted several acres of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, picpoul blanc, viognier, zinfandel, and tempranillo. They call their winery Eagles Nest Winery, and had they known the amount of time, money, and sweat such a venture would be they may have thought twice. But the Grimes are committed to doing things correctly, and very committed to seeing the Ramona Valley into a place of success for themselves and the increasing number of wineries in the area.
Having met Dennis and Julie at the Wine Blogger's Conference in June I accepted an invitation to spend the day with Dennis bottling some of his 2008 Ruby Cabernet, and 2007 Picpoul Blanc Port-Styled Sweet Wine. Knowing very little about the production side of wine (except what the tours that start and end in a tasting room have shown me, and what I can read in books) Dennis was very gracious to give me a glimpse at what his life is like as he and Julie fulfill every role on the farm: vineyard management, winemaker, marketing, and all while both having full-time day jobs.You can infer then that their production is relatively small, and they rely heavily on the volunteer assistance of friends and family (hence my presence). What this does however is make the whole production a rather joyful and collaborative effort. The property is homey and comfortable, with great views, a very neat little cottage available for rent, and a real family-like atmosphere.
As for the wine, I had an opportunity to taste the 2008 Ruby Cabernet, and the Cabernet Sauvignon Sur Lie as they were going into the bottle. Both need some time to sit back, but both were delicious and offered at a very fair price point for a small botique winery in an unproven region. I also tasted the Picpoul Blanc (a rare grape in California) made in a port style. This wine had some nice acidity and cool prickly minerality that made it quite enjoyable. I am encouraging Dennis to make a dry picpoul blanc one of these years, but we will see. He says "Unfortunately people love sweet white wine, and it sells really well for me." I say that it is not unfortunate if people enjoy it, but I certainly know what he is saying.
I have several more of Dennis and Julie's wines to try and will report back here as I do so. In the meantime if you want to check out Eagles Nest Winery you will have to call them directly to order or inquire further about their wines (the area is in the middle of quite a battle over allowing tasting rooms) or you can order wine directly from them on their website.
While it will take years to grow an area into a reputable wine producing region (and realistically the Southern California options may never completely make it) it is the heart and determination of the few that will get them there. Dennis and Julie are certainly pioneers in this cause, and my day was a great one for having spent it with them.
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