Friday, May 14, 2010

The Wines of Spain - Red Wines

Yesterday I brought you a review of the white wines I experienced at Great Match - a wine tasting of Spanish wines held a SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills. While I found the white wines delicious and refreshing, it was the tempranillo-based red wines that really sold me on Spain. What follows is a similar discussion of two Spanish wine regions with a few recommended wines from each:

Rioja - Spain's most acclaimed wine producing region, Riojas are primarily based on the red grape Tempranillo. While a poor quality Rioja can be thin, limp, and tasteless, a great Rioja has a finesse and structure that is almost Burgundy like in its complexity and supple texture. Rioja ages its wines for a very long time, with requirements on the length of time the wine is in oak barrels (usually fairly neutral) so you will see the current releases are older than most wines you will encounter. Riojas are generally earthy and slightly rustic, offering less fruit than a New World devotee might be accustomed to. I am just now experiencing these wines, and I must say I am a quick convert. These highlighted wines are really spectacular for my palette:
Ysios Reserva 2004 - A great transition wine between the Old and New World styles (wines in Rioja are becoming fruitier and oakier) this wine offers up just enough funk to keep it interesting, and plummy fruit to keep it delicious. It has great structure and a finish that shows Rioja earthiness and lasts for quite awhile. It retails for around $20.
Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 2001 - The regular Reserva is available at Trader Joe's for $15, but the Gran Reserva is only produced in great vintages and is aged for a year longer. This wine was amazingly supple. The nose was decidedly musty and dusty but in a 'fond memory' type of way, like how you imagine your grandmother's basement to smell. It drank of very subtle fruit, and spice, with lots of almost coffee'd earth. This wine retails for between $45 and $70.
Marques de Tomares Reserva 2001 - Probably nearing the end of its greatness this wine had a very Old World barnyard nose and great structure. This one offered just a touch of oak that was balanced well to the fruit and acid, another example of a delicious Rioja. This wine retails for around $35.


Ribera del Duero - Another region known for its red wines Ribera del Duero tends to produce intense red wines that exude power while still maintaining a finesse that is unrivaled in other regions. Also focusing on the tempranillo grape, but a genetic version of the grape referred to as tinto fino, Ribera del Duero wines are known for their concentration, full flavors, and amazingly soft tannins. This region also produces many wines that straddle the Old World and New World in style and taste profile, and is filled with great values that can be found with a little exploration.
AALTO Ribera del Duero 2006 - Made by winemaker Mariáno Garcia , an instrumental player in demonstrating the world-class possibilities of Ribera del Duero, this wine offered an amazing balance between dark fruit and tasty earth notes. The backbone of acid kept the wine together perfectly, and made it one of the best wines that I tasted the whole day. It retails for between $45 and $50.
Valduero Reserva Ribera del Duero 2005 - Another great Ribera del Duero offering a cranberry nose, and some beautiful coffee on the palette. Just a touch of oak and a very long finish cap off the velvety tannins and convinces you that the intensity that the wine does offer is quite beautiful. This wine retails for around $45.

This tasting has thoroughly convinced me that Spanish wines should be included in every wine drinker's experience. They are almost bi-polar in their power, intensity, restraint, and subtlety. In addition to the 4 regions highlighted in these posts there are other lesser known or celebrated wine regions in Spain that are offering even more styles of wines and at better price points. Get out their and explore, you will not be disappointed by what Spain has to offer.

3 comments:

  1. Well you have convinced me. I will probably stick with the $15 bottle at traders but would love to give a new region a look.

    By the way, I love that the 3 most common tag you have given your self is for "rants". That is hilarious!

    Keep on writing.
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  2. I just had the Ysios yesterday at a Rioja tasting, and I completely agree with you.
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  3. Jason - Then we will have to go dutch on a bottle of the Ysios. I'll look around and see where it retails around here.

    B8 - Yeah, it really was great.
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