Using Counoise as a Primary Grape

The story: Counoise is a minor red grape planted primarily in the Southern Rhone to add fruit forward flavors and a softness to Chateauneuf du Pape blends. It is almost never seen as a primary grape in a blend, and I was unable to find any example of a single varietal bottling of counoise (pronounced kuhn-wahz BTW). D and I were back at our trusty wine bar, The Must, and noticed a new offering out of Paso Robles that featured counoise. Not being one to pass up an interesting and new blend (and liking the price) we ordered it up to go with our cheesesteaks and jidori chicken dinners.

The wine: The Opolo Grand Rouge 2006 is 60% counoise, 19% grenache, 20% syrah, and 1% petite sirah. Sourced primarily from Opolo's vineyards on both sides of Paso Robles, this blend appears to have been produced both in 2005 and 2006. It is a bright translucent red in the glass and gives of huge amounts of blueberry fruit on the nose. There is also a touch of cedar and vanilla, with just a hint of spicy black pepper. The wine drinks like a piece of blueberry pie, followed with just a touch of spice. It is medium bodied and has very soft tannins. The wine is a fruit bomb, and will not be to everyone's liking. It lacks complexity but I always argue that there is something to be said for simply tasting good, which this wine does. The 2005 vintage retails from the winery for $19, and is similarly available from some internet based wine shops. I do not see the 2006 available anywhere at this time.

The verdict: The wine is a 3 out of 5. For $20 there are things that I would rather drink, and yet the wine was enjoyable. For any wine geeks out there it is worth trying simply to get a better understanding of what counoise offers as a grape. Enjoy!