Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Oregon Wine and I Grew Up Together, But I Didn't Know It

The story: As a kid I drove north to the big city of Salem, OR literally hundreds of time. We would drive along Interstate 5 and I would use the Enchanted Forest on the right as a landmark to tell me that we were almost there. Enchanted Forest is a small, tacky theme park where battery operated bears delight small town children with their stuccato movements, and Old Mother Hubbard's shoe serves as a slide that you can take a burlap sack down. Just south of this theme park stood a big empty hill, full of the characteristic red soil that reminds me of my Aunts dirt driveway in her nearby house. When I was in grade school I watched with relative disinterest as someone planted the entire hill in grape vines and built a big fancy house at the top. Slowly our frequent drives through the Willamette Valley became trips that were often flanked with grape vines. In my house, honestly, wine was something that a couple of great uncles were gonna die from and an aisle that we could just skip at the supermarket so I didn't pay that much attention. But now that I am learning about wine I realize that I grew up in an important wine region. I have a lot of catching up to do. If terroir is an expression of the environment and influences then I share terroir with these praiseworthy Oregon wines. We grew up together. We both spent summer afternoons looking over the rooftops of the Enchanted Forest ticket booths, me actively working to convince my parents to stop and the Pinot actively working to mature its sugar in the few months of sunshine that the valley receives. There is something there that makes me feel connected to this wines that I didn't even realize were happening in my backyard. I have a new found resolve to taste and appreciate them.

The wine: The Erath Oregon Pinot Noir 2008 is one of the first releases of the stellar Oregon 2008 vintage. Located in the famous Dundee Hills, Erath has been growing Pinot Noir for 40 years now and this bottle represents their entry-level, early release cuvee, designed to be widely accessible. I have tasted other 2008 Oregon pinot noirs in barrel so I was very excited to give this wine a try. It poured a thin scarlet red, and was quite translucent in the glass. The wine had a nose of cherry and strawberry with a touch of minerality. This drank like a typical, inexpensive pinot noir, quite light in body, some cherry and red fruit, a touch of spice, and a decent finish. The wine retails widely for around $15, and in Southern California is being offered at Costco.

The verdict: Overall the wine came across as pretty uninspiring. There really was nothing to think about as it was quite simple, but also the flavors nor texture offerred up anything that made you want to come back to the glass. I am often disappointed by pinot noirs that cost under $20, and this one was no different. The wine gets a 2.5 out of 5 as there was nothing inherently wrong with it, but I would not buy it again.

Moving on, I still feel inspired to reconnect with the grapes that I grew up alongside. Any Oregon suggestions that I must get to soon?

9 comments:

  1. Man, I feel like Erath has really let you down. After this bottle and the pricier one we shared a while back, you must be feeling pretty unimpressed. Since I am a big Erath fan I am now going to make it my mission to find you a bottle that will blow your mind (okay, or at least one that you enjoy moderately). I have to pick up my winter and spring shipment soon and will taste everything and take notes. :)

    Onto other wineries: One of my other favorites is Sokol Blosser. They have been around forever, since before Oregon "wine country" was hip. Personally, I appreciate the unpretentious vibe of their tasting room, their knowledgeable staff and their great picnic area. As far as their wines go, I have been continually happy with their pinot noirs. However, my personal favorite is their Meditrina red blend. It is very drinkable and a great wine to bring along to a party or share with a friend (at $15 I usually buy several bottles to have around the house). I also like their Evolution white blend, but it's a little too sweet for me to drink regularly. Here's what their website says about the Meditrina:

    "There is a core of rich, lush berry from the Syrah. The Zinfandel provides spice, tannin and structure. And the Pinot Noir brings flowers, earth and elegance. It all adds up to a luscious, juicy, easy-drinking mouthful of red wine that's both bright and vibrant yet round and soft. Every sip of the wine, Meditrina, honors the goddess of the same name. Mmmmm"

    Another favorite pinot noir is the Argyle 2006 Nuthouse. I received this bottle as a birthday gift a few years back and saved it for a "special occasion". We drank it on New Years Eve and it lived up to the hype! Argyle is a wonderful place to taste and purchase sparkling wines as well as other Oregon varieties. Here's what they say about the Nuthouse:

    "2006 Nuthouse Pinot Noir Tasting Notes
    This is our Classic "big furniture" Pinot Noir style derived from Lone Star Vineyard. Its melanite color is the first indicator of its boldness. The aroma is black cherry reduction fruit, black licorice, Earl Grey spices, and that luscious, fresh earth quality that says "Nuthouse". The flavors are big, juicy black cherry and black plum pudding spices. The texture forms a rich, creamy center to this richly ripe Pinot Noir. The ripe plum and cherry fruit carry on and on. It is a wonderful thing to experience such powerful, exotic Pinot Noir yet wonder at its bright, balanced, mineral pinpoint touch twirling on the palate."

    Cheers!
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  2. Thanks Morgan. I have heard great things about Sokol Blosser as well. And believe me, I'm all up for us finding the good ones next time I come up there.
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  3. Scott,
    I almost grabbed this same wine when I was at Costco this weekend! I'm thinking that I'm glad I passed on it. I have been reading Sip With Me quite religiously and I have wanted to expand my palate away from my home turf of Sonoma County more and more because of it.

    Thanks for making me feel better about my "not purchasing" decision!

    Cheers,
    Brian
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  4. Yeah, save up for something better. If you ever get over to K&L in Redwood City buy some Amalie Robert, I was impressed with their whole line up. I've also liked Willamette Valley Vineyards (which happen to be the estate that I reference that sits next to Enchanted Forest).
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  5. If you're willing to brave another $20 Pinot, give the 2008 Duck Pond a try. (In the interest of disclosure...Duck Pond is owned by my husband and his family.) Most of the fruit comes from our Delaney and St. Jory Vineyard sites which are off of the same exit as Enchanted Forest!

    I'm not sure what you're looking for in terms of flavor profile, but it's got all of the Pinot hallmarks...earthy, spicy and fruity, with great acidity. There isn't much of the dill characteristic that you often find in OR pinot, so if that's something you like, you may not care for this one.

    A few other personal Oregon favorites (though more than $20) are Elk Cove and Bethel Heights. Happy drinking!
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  6. Thank you Amber, this type of suggestion is exactly why I write The Vino File. I will certainly seek out Duck Pond (I have heard good things before) and you will see it here as soon as I try it.
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  7. Unfortunately, I've found that Oregon Pinot really only gets sublime above $30-35. I love some of the single vineyard stuff from Erath. Also check out Patricia Green, Panther Creek, Archery Summit...
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  8. Sad, I agree with Morgan and really enjoy Erath's Pinot. I have since my wife babysat for one of their owners back in college, and got paid in cases of it. Maybe it's nostalgia, then.

    What I like about Erath is that it's predictable and I guess tastes the way a $15-$20 bottle of Pinot Noir should. I've tasted $30 Pinots much worse.

    I'm afraid I have to disagree with Amber about Duck Pond. I've given it two tries, from the grocery store and at their tasting room. Both times I found it watery and underwhelming.

    But again, I like Erath, so I may just be a rookie.

    Maggie, I dig on Archery, too.
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  9. Also, you're on a nostalgia kick, my friend. The Enchanted Forest. I think I went there for Birthdays 5 through 11. I held hands with a girl on our Mock Trial team in the haunted house, Freshman year, but I can't remember her name... I was chubby.
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