Stephen Ross Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyards 2006

The story: It is arguably true that Chardonnay, more than any other grape, takes on its characteristics from the vinification techniques that are applied to it. Chardonnay literally can be found in so many different styles that it can be difficult to state what is 'varietally correct.' However it is a forgiving grape to grow, and provides a beautiful sugar to acid ratio that makes it approachable to so many palettes when done well. There is really no wonder that it is so popular.

The other great aspect to Chardonnay's versatility is that it really can take on the characteristics of the appellation in which it is grown. One such appellation, the Santa Maria Valley, tends to produce Chardonnay fruit that exhibits wonderful tropical fruit flavors. The viability of Santa Maria Valley has been enhanced substantially by wines coming out of Bien Nacido vineyards. This is one of the most well known vineyards on California's Central Coast. Planted to 250 acres of Chardonnay, 200 acres of Pinot Noir, and many acres each of Pinot Blanc, Syrah, and Merlot, this vineyard provides the fruit from some major and accomplished wineries. Pioneers on the Central Coast like Au Bon Climat, and Qupe even have their winemaking facilities here. Bien Nacido single vineyard designation on a bottle of wine at a minimum indicates that the winemaker takes great pride in starting with high-quality fruit that will be expressive of the terroir.

Stephen Ross, while located a few miles north in San Luis Obispo, produces a Chardonnay that is sourced from a few rows in Bien Nacido vineyard. He produces several Chardonnays, but makes this wine in a more European style, leaving the acidity high to make it a food friendly wine. For someone looking for a Chardonnay that expresses California, without being a oaky butter bomb, this is a wine to consider.

The wine - The 2006 Stephen Ross Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyards is a golden yellow in the glass and has a subtle nose of apple, toasted bread, and just a whiff of oak. On the palette the wine gives off citrus elements, lemon rind, some tropical fruit (pineapple), and a nice minerality. The wine does have a crisp acidity with a medium to long finish that is both refreshing and makes you want to return for more.

The verdict - This wine gets a 3.5 (out of 5). Not everyone who tasted this wine with me enjoyed it, as many like a rounder, creamier Chardonnay. But I think it was a nice example of the style that many producers are moving to in a crisper, less oaked Chardonnay more reminiscent of their French counterparts (but with that California sunshine fruitiness that I can't find anything wrong with!!)

This wine cost me $16.95 which was a steal. I happen to know that there are a few bottles left at CW Cellars in Pasadena, if you are in Southern California. Otherwise the 2007 vintage is available for order from the winery here. The 2006 vintage did get a score of 92 from Wine Enthusiast also, if that lends more credence to my recommendation!!