Friday, April 23, 2010

How Do You Define 'Value' in Wine? (I Think It Is Mostly Made Up)

I've been thinking a lot about what 'value' means in regards to wine. I have probably been thinking about this because as I explore and learn about wine I tend to drink inexpensive wine. Juxtaposed against some of the great wine I get to taste occasionally I am firmly aware that there tends to be a price to quality correlation in wine, and by spending less on wine I am usually sacrificing some elements of quality. Of course this is not always the case, and maybe that is where value exists, but lets dig into it a little bit.

subjective - a judgement that takes place in the mind or is influenced primarily by individual observations

objective - something that exists externally, actually exists, or is real

So if wine value is found at the intersection of quality and price then it can be an objective observation. I have argued before that a wine's quality is not subjective. Good structure, integration, complexity, terroir expression, etc. DO exist and are real. Price is also an external occurrence. One can track the average price of a certain varietal or blend, from a certain region, within a certain quality range, and use a mathematical calculation to ascertain where the specific wine's price point falls in the continuum. This would be a measure of the wine's value and could be argued to be objective.

However, while quality may exist objectively it is only ever able to be expressed as an experience from an individual palette that translates this experience into a score. So at this point subjectivity is introduced. Then an individual's willingness to part with their dollars to repeat the experience is so obviously subjective that the idea of defining a wine's value as an observable reality seems to me to fly right out the window. (Stop me if I am rambling, or writing run-on sentences.)

I say this because we folks who discuss (or review) wine regularly attempt to define a wine as a good value, or not worth the money. Some reviewers include a wine's price point as an element in their overall score. I argue that the value of the wine becomes so subjective through the individual's experience that this almost becomes pointless. What we are really saying is that for my experience today, in this moment, with all the influences I had on me when tasting this wine, this $15 Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon came across more like a $20 Cab that I have had in the past. If advice on a value wine is kept in check, with an understanding of its subjectivity, then I think it is worthwhile. But as a constant pursuit to actively search for the best 'value' I think it is a waste of time and has the potential to drain out some of the joy that experiencing wine is supposed to provide in the first place. So I promise that when I score a wine it is based on my experience and is aside from the price point. I may subsequently comment on whether I personally found it worth the asking retail price or not, but that will be a separate and identifiably subjective judgement.

The value of a wine ONLY exists in an individual's experience and how they feel about their decision to trade their dollars for the product. We can make observations and statements like 'people will tend to feel that this wine was worth more than they paid', but beyond this wine value is not measurable or objective.

Do you agree? Disagree? How do you tend to define value for yourself? Do you just spend what you feel comfortable, sit back and enjoy and not really think about it too much?

5 comments:

  1. Scott,
    Great post! Price is an ongoing battle I have with myself when picking a bottle from my cellar (and by cellar I mean the rack I have hiding in my closet). I know what I payed for it and that imparts some sort of value (prior to opening the thing). However, once it's open price has a tendency to disappear as a influencer. But then, if I'm "reviewing" it the dollars creep back in and I say, wow this was outstanding for a $10 bottle or I shouldn't have spent $5 on this.

    I guess the biggest problem is that at the end of the day, the hard earned ducats you throw down for wine can be used for other things of value, so a $50 bottle of wine is a round of golf or a night out at the movies.

    Clearly we all just need more money, then, maybe, we could all just "sit back and enjoy and not really think about it too much!"

    Cheers
    Brian
    http://norcalwingman.com
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  2. Having spent the better part of 10 years scoring thousands and thousands of wines while on the tasting panel of Wine News magazine, the one thing I know for a "fact" is that outside of pure chemical analysis and hygiene, there is nothing objective about wine. Even questions raised by you previously about integration, terroir reflection, etc. are subject to so much interpretation (to oak or not to oak in order to "properly" respect where Chablis comes from, for example) that at the end of the day, there's not much more to say about a wine than whether the consumer of it found it to serve his/her purpose at that moment. Of course, there are levels and layers to any subject and wine is no different. What continued to bother me about the cloak of "objectivity" surrounding us wine-scorers is that even if you could put aside the question of whether anything is truly objective about wine analysis, none of us worked off the same matrix. As one of my colleagues once said to me during a very good-natured debate about the score we were assigning to a Chianti Classico, he just didn't believe a Chianti could ever merit a score over 90 points. How insane is that? And yet, he had a good palate, was open to trying new stuff, etc. But he brought to the tasting room table his own biases and preferences. And I guess my point is that there's nothing wrong with that.

    What I like about your post is that it proves that this is an endless (in a good way) debate. One I'd prefer to have over a glass or three!
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  3. Brian-

    Thanks for the thoughts. I have to say that yes, my ultimate goal is just to have enough money that the value per dollar goes WAY down. Even then, when I opt for a cheaper bottle and have a good time drinking it there will be something quite pleasing about that.

    Todd-

    Thank you for your perspective as a former wine grader. I tend to agree with you, but still argue that there is inherent quality that is objective in wine, it just may be that we lack the ability to translate it through our own perceptions making it absolutely impossible to measure. Either way, I also enjoy the debate and even came out on one side of the 'value' debate more to stimulate discussion than to staunchly pick a side!!
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  4. Not to continue to beat the hell out of that poor dead horse, but I'm always surprised (although I shouldn't be) when I pour one of the wines I import/distribute that I KNOW is well made, reflects where it's from, etc. (all those things that I think you value as well), and I get a blank stare that says, "Yeah, it's OK, but I really like Santa Margherita" (or some such thing). There's no accounting for taste! Perhaps that's as it should be...
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  5. I've shared wines that I know are good as well to a lackluster response. It is a reminder to me that there are some wines that should not be shared!!!
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