Champagne is rightly the king (queen?) or sparkling wine on the world stage. So much so that like Kleenex, or Tylenol it now is often the term used by the masses to describe any product resembling itself. (Sorry Champagne for the comparison to pills and tissue...) However, many Champagne brands realized early that the Chardonnay in particular being grown in California was pretty damn good, and decided to set up shop on this side of the Atlantic to create some California sparkling wines. Now these domestic sparklers are at an all-time high in terms of quality and it begs for their to be a quick little showdown.
Champagne Tattinger in Reims is just one of those big old Champagne houses who got in on the California action. They started Domaine Carneros in, well Carneros, and have been producing sparkling wines and still Pinot Noir from the property since the early 1990's. I sat down to a NV Champagne Tattinger La Francaise Brut and a 2005 Le Reve Domaine Carneros. Many would argue that this is an unfair comparison, I would argue back - this was just for fun, the winner here really receives no glory or elevation.
The Champagne Tattinger La Francaise was yeasty and filled with citrus fruits. It was bright with acid but rather on the full side. Like most entry level Champagne it was not super complex but was tasty, refreshing, and fun. I liked it a lot for a $30 Champagne, it is widely available, and have no problem recommending it.
The Le Reve was a whole different animal. Certainly on the rich side, it was brimming with fruit and brioche, a touch of smoke, and layers of flavor. The mouthfeel was creamy but lifted, and the nose was beguiling. This is a spectacular bottle of sparkling wine - one that makes the $95 price tag seem justified.
So in this non-binding death match California came out on top, and Champagne proves again that they may a great decision in investing in California production. Have you ever put a Champagne toe to toe with a California sparkling wine? What were your results?
There comes a time in every man's life when he must man up and admit that he loves Chardonnay. I mean this as a true obligation, and one that many man can never concur. The stigmas abound and are difficult to face, but failing to achieve this difficult task only serves to rob oneself of the joys that this often maligned (and often mistreated) grape adds to one's life. With this goal in mind the brilliant minds behind the Pasadena Society of Millenials Interested in Observations on Fermented Fruit sat down to a long and lustrous lineup of Chardonnay recently. What resulted was a qualitative increase in the number each person assigned (from 1-10) in their adherence with the following statement:
'I think Chardonnay makes some of the most interesting and beautiful white wine in the world and will try to find a place for it in my regular drinking and purchasing habits.'
If you too are ready to tackle this right of passage, I provide for you a list of rather diverse California and French Chardonnays for your persevering efforts, presented in order of the group's ratings:
1) Liquid Farm 2010 'White Hill' Chardonnay -Wow, this is an amazing wine from a new winery in Sta. Rita Hills with a distinct point of view. This wine smells of lemon meringue and a bit of grass. It brims with bright acidity, citrus notes, honey, and a beautiful touch of minerality. This is so incredibly fresh it will wine you over instantly - a truly beautiful Chardonnay at $38.
2) Bedrock Wine Company 2009 Brousseau Vineyard Chalone Chardonnay - Seems New World fruit with an Old World sensibility stole the show as this is another restrained, minerally wine with a touch of sweet green apple, amazing florality, and a kiss of salinity. The balance in this wine is spectacular and the flavors that emerge as it crosses your palate are very pleasing. This is a superbly crafted wine - and one I put on par with Liquid Farm.
3) Melville Estate 2010 Wente Selection - Available to wine club only, this wine was rich and leesy, with tropical pineapple on the nose and palate. And yet it snapped to a crisp finish and showed a rich minerality. Stunningly Californian, and a pleasure to drink Melville often gets my highest recommendation.
4) Peter Micheal Belle Cote 2009 - I had high hopes for this wine, and it was good. Brimming with tropical fruit - papaya and pineapple, there was also a distinct aspect of fresh bread dough to this wine. The oak was apparent but integrated, and an aspect of vanilla sugar finished it off nicely. For me this wine was very good, but not worth the price.
5) Saarloos and Sons 2008 Daughter's Chardonnay - I am only realizing now that Caifornia deftly overshadowed France in our specific tasting, and this Santa Barbara helped that right along. A nice wine for the $24 price tag, this wine was riper than the previous with cotton candy and sweet tropical fruit throughout. The acid was a bit prickly yet, but I can certainly recommend this wine for those who like fatter California Chardonnay.
6) 2008 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet - Alright, France's turn, and this one was certainly showing the more mineral, stony, lean side of Chardonnay. A bit characterless, this wine showed apple skins, underripe pineapple, and a sense of dry extract. Alright in itself, but not worth the $50 price tag - this wine was a bit of a disappointment.
7) Ramey 2009 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay - A bit too much for most of the crowd, this was creamy, oaky, toffee, and ripe pear. I thought it was handled nicely and the elements were in balance, but it didn't go over well with those adverse to a bit of butter and oak. At $60 this is a splurge, and should only be purchased by those who like their Chard big and ripe.
8) Robert Denogent 2008 St. Veran - Austere and dry, this wine was rocky, minerally, and had some big acidic lift. It wasn't bad, it just wasn't interesting and definitely needed to be on a dinner table. The majority called it a pass as the simplicity was not met with enough interest.
9) A Macon that will remain unnamed was completely oxidized - cool to taste if you like nutty sherry type flavors, but not fair to include in the evaluation.
A nice lineup to display the diversity and wonder of Chardonnay, and a proud declaration - I love Chardonnay!
Today as a sort of public service announcement I offer the top ten things we can all stop saying. If everybody saved 10-15 words a day that would be like 3-4 billion words in the U.S. alone. If you think about it, that's really a HUGE savings and you kind of only have to choose one of the sentences below to not say each day. Plants will be able to work a little bit less hard to convert us new oxygen, everyone can really just relax. Take your pick, or come up with a new idea of things that 'go without saying.'
1) This is a completely non-smoking flight. (I love how they almost always say completely, like its different than those ones where you can smoke on the descent...)
2) The backlash against Merlot should be over. (Still for some reason no one can mention Merlot without referencing Sideways. It makes me itchy its so played out.)
3) Buckle up!
4) I just hate the butter and oak bomb Chardonnays (yeah, yeah, you and everyone with some sophistication)
5) I could really stand to lose a few pounds (You could save a few words by just saying 'I'm a modern American')
6) Sparkling wine does not need to just be for celebrations (anyone who does not know this doesn't deserve to drink it with food - doesn't need to be said anymore)
7) At least it's Thursday (I actually would refrain from making any reference to what day of the week it is at work, it is mundane and believe me everyone is already well aware)
8) I don't like sweet wine (yes you do, you just won't let yourself)
9) What? You haven't seen ? (I get this all the time and I want to say, uh yeah, that's what I just said)
10) This wine is made in a more international style (call it overripe, call it overoaked, mention is has no real sense of place but don't call it the 'international' style - that phrase is ironically becoming as flabby as the style it is trying to represent)
A couple of months ago I received a bottle of Cognac. As the box was opened I felt a surge of excitment, the box and bottle were beautiful, the juice inside mahogany brown and inticing. I placed the bottle proudly at the front of my liquor cabinet, making sure that it hid from view that embarassing bottle of coconut-flavored rum behind it, and promised to take it out for a swirl soon enough. Only a few hours later did I realize that I had no knowledge or context for what I had received. As if the bottle was staring me down from its perch in the cupboard, I began to feel uncomfortable.
"You got all excited, but you don't know what I really am or have a clue what to do with me," it seemed to be challenging me from the kitchen. I realized quickly that the gift may be more than a nicely foiled box and ornate glasswork. Indeed, this gift may be a chance to learn about an entirely unique and delicious beverage. What follows is simply what I learned, which in turn allowed me to enjoy my Cognac both in context and in experience.
Cognac is called Cognac simply because it hails from the region around the town of Cognac in Western France (yes, I started simple.) It is a brandy, meaning it is a distilled spirit produced from fruit. In the case of Cognac it is entirely produced from grapes, namely Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard. Like all AOC regulated products in France the requirements for a beverage to be legally called a Cognac are quite complex, but this is how France has consistently provided consistency in their wines and spirits (and consistently been considered at the top of the wine and spirit production pyramid)!
The grapes are pressed and vinified into a white wine, and only grapes from one of the certified regions of Cognac can be included. The resulting wine is probably not something you would want to drink at this point - Ugni Blanc is rarely seen as a white table wine on its own, and the region of Cognac does not necessarily produce enough body and ripeness to make a palateable wine. What is produced however lends itself beautifully to the next stages of Cognac production.
The wine is then double distilled in a copper still (years, and I mean many years, of practice have indicated that copper imparts no taste influence on this process), and even the stills that can be used are regulated. The double distillation results in a spirit that is then put into oak barrels for aging. This aging process is important as flavors from the oak are imparted into the spirit overtime. I'm sure you are as surprised as me to know that the type of wood used to make these aging barrels is, you guessed it, prescribed. Eventually the spirit is transferred to glass containers and awaits the blending process.
The blending process, although not required, is usually done in a manner that allows the specific house to release a consistent tasting product year after year. It is during this process that the tasters attempt to produce a complex taste profile that will result in a distinct style for their specific house. It is the age of the youngest brandy in the blend that will set the quality grade that you may recognize from your strolls down the Cognac aisle:
V.S. - indicates a Cognac in which the youngest spirit was aged in barrel for at least two years
V.S.O.P - indicates that the youngest spirits was aged for at least four years
X.O. - indicates at least six years of aging for the youngest spirit in the blend
You must keep in mind that the designation is based on the youngest spirit in the blend, not the average. Many X.O. designated Cognacs average nearly 20 years of aging (and you will find that this extra time in storage will cost you a bit more money, but the complexity certainly tends to follow).
So I now had a bit of understanding about what it was staring me down from the cabinet, but I still wasn't sure what to do with it. The beauty of Cognac is in the myriad of flavors that it can present. While each house or brand attempts to produce a similar taste profile year to year, the variety within the category is what ultimately may drag you wine geeks into a prolonged exploration.
I realized that coming at Cognac from a more traditional table wine background that I would best enjoy this drink as intended, simply in a snifter, with no distractions, observing and enjoying the aromas and tastes that this Cognac presents. While the 40% abv offers some distinction in how this is enjoyed, it is best enjoyed on it's own. I simply poured a small amount into my glass, swirled the liquid to release some aromas and took a tentative sniff. I found this was all that was needed. Too far into the glass and the alcohol was overpowering (and a bit astringent). But the typical nose plunge of wine tasting was not needed or warranted. Instead I found that the aromas of nuts and caramel, sometimes flowers or vanilla are fascinatingly present well above the glass. Every bit as intriguing and complex (in many cases more so) than a great glass of wine I have come to love picking out the aromas of a slowly warming glass of Cognac.
The alcohol content of Cognac presents a different tasting technique as well. Best for me is to make sure I am a bit warmed up - a big initial slurp will not be pleasant. Instead several smaller sips over time allow the full complexities of the spirit to come through. And the variations you will find when exploring Cognac are certainly what will keep you coming back. Some are warm and leathery, others brighter and flowery. The distinctions, and yet the regions ability to maintain a consistency through their tight production standards, are astounding.
Armed with a bit of knowledge and context I went forth and thoroughly enjoyed the Cognac I received. The gift kept giving, beautiful packaging for initial excitement, a new head full of knowledge for continued thought, and a new habit for pleasurable sipping - I am thankful that I am coming to know Cognac.
CAMPAGNE FINANCEE AVEC LE CONCOURS DE L’UNION EUROPEENNE ET DE LA FRANCE
The story: The Interwebs loves things that are cute. While it usually involves lots of fur combined with either a button-like black nose or tongue that probably indicates loss of musculature through over breeding, today you've stumbled upon the exploration of something cute that is actually worth your attention. This blog has paid a lot of love to Paso Robles, probably because of its proximity to my house, but also because the diverse styles and emergence of wonderful California Rhônes get me excited. Combine with that level-headed pricing and the ability to drive its roads, even on weekends, without being stuck behind a line of lumbering limos and you have a winner.
Clayhouse Wines makes a rather diverse lineup of wines from the fruit of Paso Robles and recently teamed up with TastingRoom.com to provide a sample of their Estate wines in a box of 50ml bottles. While I expected to enjoy the wines, I did not realize that the opening of the little black box in which they were provided would turn me into a gushing admirer, reminiscent of a high school girl who reads anime and creates collages of wet bunnies and abnormally premature piglets. These things are damned cute. It made me wish they had baby corks and a tiny corkscrew, and I even considered tasting the wines out of the world's smallest wine glass. And while my giggling and fawning might have temporarily stripped me of the small amount of masculinity that I occassionally exhibit, I did find that this was a spectacularly efficient way to sample a variety of wines and decide what I like. The wine inside the bottles was fresh, and the size was truly perfect for a couple swishes (and swallows if you prefer) that allowed a full evaluation of a rather wide lineup. I know it is not a terrible problem to have, but it is never pleasant to me to taste several samples and end up dumping wine down the drain. Nor is it pleasant to the PR folks to spend upwards of $30 to send me a 30 lb. box when all I really need is a couple of swigs. What Clayhouse and TastingRoom.com delivered was really innovative (beyond the fact that I wanted to hug the bottles.)
The wine: But now I am just sounding weird, so lets get on to the wines. The lineup consisted of a range of Rhône and Bordeaux inspired wines with a couple of Petite Sirahs. The entire portfolio was good, these are typical of Paso Robles and rather big, rich wines, but they were good. And all of the wines ring in at under $40. From the sample I would easily say that you can rely on Clayhouse Estate series for good quality and good value. None of the wines disappointed. But if you really want a specific recommendation I would have to go with these two:
The Clayhouse 2008 Estate Malbec has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot to round out its Bordeaux (although not typical with Malbec at the lead) credentials. It is a dark wine, almost black at its core, and offers aromas of rich plum with hints of smoke and coffee. The palate is dry and still a bit held up in tannic structure, but the flavors of dark berry and plum are nice, as is the reserved but apparent oak spice. As the wine transitions across the palate there is some nice pepperiness and a energetic burst of dark-fruited energy that drives the wine towards a fresh earthy finish. This is a Malbec that represents its varietal well, and is considerably more interesting than a lot of the $15 Malbecs from Argentina that are currently ubiquitous in our restaurants and markets. I would however recommend another year or so of leaving this one alone. A bit more integration will serve it well. $35
The Clayhouse 2007 Show Pony Petite Sirah is impenetrable in its blackness, and the brooding nose of rich blackberry, cream, and spice continue this character. The nose is sweet and monsterous and yet quite appealing, also very characteristic of the power that California Petite Sirah can contain. The juice coincides, full bodied and brooding, with sweet blackberry and a delicious licorice spice. A sense of dark chocolate and dried sage add interest - but the most compelling part of this wine is its focus throughout its rather fleshy experience. I'm not sure this is a wine for a meal, it stands up just fine on its own, but it is very delicious and very well made. $40
The verdict: Clayhouse has done a nice job in providing well made wines to its consumers, and in finding an innovative way to allow people to sample their wines. Over the years they have become another feather in the cap of Paso Robles, a region that has certainly proven itself. If you are in Paso Robles tasting, or if you are just ordering wine for your own drinking pleasure, you will be pleased with any of their Estate line. Check them out.
I went into a wine bar this week to grab a pre-dinner glass with a good friend. Sitting on the bar were a bottle of Gigondas and a bottle of Vacqueyras that did not appear on their list. When inquired, the bartender indicated that they were samples from a rep, and they were waiting on the owner to taste to see if he wanted to carry them in his retail section. No problem, I responded, I'll take a glass of the Sancerre. But the bartender did not stop there (like he was compelled to teach me something?) and indicated that they would NEVER be able to afford pouring those bottles by the glass. These bottles were single-vineyard Rhônes, and were beautiful, violet field AOC wines. They were not the under $100 Gigondas or Vacqueyras that taste very dirty and muddled. He said that Gigondas and Vacqueyras are probably his favorite regions, but he just can't drink the bottles that cost under $100.
I paused and scrunched up my eyes, and said something to the effect of how long he must have searched to find a bottle of Gigondas and Vacqueyras both over $100. I dropped it there, not really understanding why he was making this story up. Not to mention the bottles were nearly full and it would be unusual for a rep to leave two $100 bottles at an account just for the owner to taste later (in my experience).
An hour later I was tasting these wines, and discussing with the owner Grenache's beauty and potential downfalls, commenting on how these bottles (at under $30) were both fresh values - within earshot of the strangely compulsive bartender. It may sound arrogant, but I got a little charge of pride by never having to call him out on his inaccurate information, and yet leaving the bar with him knowing that he had not pulled one over on me.
The world of wine is a fascinating and exciting place to explore. You get an adventure in every bottle, every bar, every vineyard. But a little bit of knowledge can greatly enhance this experience, and also apparently help you avoid some of the bullshit that can fly around the topic. Particularly on Rhônes, there is a little event (okay a big event) that is the single most efficient way to learn and have one hell of a weekend. Rapidly approaching, Paso Roble's Hospice du Rhône is one of the best weekends of my year, one of the funnest couple of days you can spend, and a wonderful place to learn that Gigondas in the $30 range can be wonderful - not at all dirty tasting.
This year's Hospice du Rhône runs from April 26 to April 28 at the Paso Roble's Event Center. It contains seminars where you will learn about, and taste, Christopher Baron's Cayuse syrahs from Walla Walla, Les Vins des Vienne collaboration of Rhône superstars Yves Cuilleron, Francois Villard, and Pierre Gaillard, and some spectacular Rhône inspired wines from Spain and Australia. You will be fed like a king during the Rosé lunch, the closing BBQ, and even during the two Grand Tastings (one Friday and one Saturday). You will have access to the world's greatest Rhône wines in a two-day extravaganza that would require a passport, several plane tickets, and many weeks of vacation to otherwise experience. In the end you will be well fed, have new friends, and know a hell of a lot about where Vacqueyras fits into the whole picture.
Tickets can be purchased for the whole weekend, or for each individual event. I can say from years past that the seminars are enlightening, fun, and well worth the expense, but the large tastings are where the true value lies. The hours fly by with plenty of opportunity to taste and speak with the proprietors and winemakers. I can't recommend this event enough, and have found it to be the single most 'can't miss' wine event I have in my calendar.
For more information on Hospice du Rhône, visit their site at http://www.hospicedurhone.org/ and clear your schedule. If you do come, please say hello, the relationships made at this event are worth a good portion of the cost. Arm yourself with a bit of knowledge, do so in a infinitely fun environment, and be prepared to become a Rhône evangelist!
Pasadena Pinot Fest 2012 was an interesting event. The space was crowded with beautiful wines, and with way too many persons for the size of the room, and in an unexpected twist I left with a list of winners that diverged far from the pinot-centric focus. I found many of the California pinots to be simply too big, and too ripe. Some may say that is an unfair criticism, but it is balanced with a true love for the pinots that showed balance. I know that it can be argued that California pinot has a right to show itelf differently than pinot from Oregon or Burgundy. It has a right to be powerful, and that is not a flaw. But heat, excessive extraction, and an inability to play nice with food is generally unappealing to me. At least when it comes to Pinot Noir, the wonderful grape whose beauty is best expressed in medium bodied, velvetty tannins, and a balance of earth and fruit flavors. So while you might expect a report from Pasadena Pinot Fest to include a long list of recommended Pinots, you will find here a rather eclectic mix of beautiful wines for your purchasing and sipping pleasure (and yes, there are some Pinots).
Arcadian Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay 2007 - Arcadian makes some pretty fruit forward wines, but with beautiful oak integration, bright acidity, and very fresh citrus and melon flavors this Chardonnay more than handles itself. It was delicious, it had richness, and yet it maintained a wonderful sense of balance. I often feel as conflicted about California Chardonnay as I do about California Pinot Noir - they are too big for their britches too often, but then you find those that are distinctly Californian and obviously world class. This is smackdab in that category.
Coeur de Terre 2010 Pinot Gris - Not your typical Oregon Pinot Gris, this wine reminded me more of Sauvignon Blanc with its grassy herbal notes and rocky minerality. Very fresh, very different, and a much more pleasant style of Pinot Gris for me, I can clearly recommend this for those who like dry, refreshing, crisp white wines that will show really well on the table. This lone Oregon producer at the Festival also showed how wonderful Willamette Valley Pinot Noir can be with their mushroomy, earthy, cherry-fruited 2009 Estate Pinot Noir. (If typicity is important to you, the PG might frustrate you. Also, relax!)
Palmina Arneis Santa Ynez Valley 2010 - A regular favorite of mine for its rich pear flavors balanced by fresh citrus acidity. I'm not sure why Palmina was pouring at this event, they do not make a Pinot, although it was probably in a nod to Steve Clifton whose other labels make some very well respected Pinots. Either way, this is a wonderfully different Cal-Ital bottle, and one that I thoroughly enjoy every time I drink it. (Bonus points for looking up and reading about Arneis prior to drinking this.)
Sojourn Cellars 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - Along with his spectacular Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III Cabernet, Sojourn's Erich Bradley was pouring some delicious juice. Unknown to me prior to this festival, this label was my most exciting find. The Sonoma Coast Pinot has a wonderful lushness to it that is so perfectly kept in check by its acidity as to make a glass of Pinot that shines on its own but would also be spectacular with food. These are the styles of California wine that make us stand out, and should therefore be supported!
Clos Pepe Pinot Noir Vertical - Clos Pepe was pouring several years of their Estate Pinot Noir, in an opportunity to really experience the vintage variation. While all were recommended, the 2008 was particularly delicious. The older wines (specifically 2000, and 2002) both had some life left in them, and were well settled into themselves. The acidity may have been more pronounced, the fruit a bit more in the background, but clearly Clos Pepe produces wines that can hold on, and each bottle of wine had its own appeal.
Harmonique Elegance 2006 - Another producer I was not familiar with, Harmonique produces several Pinots out of their Alexander Valley homebase. All of their wines were restrained, and showed off that medium bodied silkiness that I love in a Pinot. The Elegance did this with a real sense of dark cherry fruit, and I can see it being a winner for those who love balanced California Pinot.
There you have it, a few Pinots, a few white wines, and even a Napa Cabernet sneaking into the list of great wines encountered at this year's Pasadena Pinot Fest. I hope it serves as a guide to getting into California Pinot Noir, as well as a glimpse into why you should look to attend this festival next year. Cheers!
