Notes to an Emerging Wine Region

Dear New New World Wine Region-


I know you don't feel new, as you have put in years of hard work and sincere dedication to your craft. I only classify you as new because you are not yet widely recognized by consumers worldwide. I hope that the term 'new' is not discouraging, as it is meant to inspire the idea of opportunity, the world is your oyster. I am writing you today to give you an idea of one consumer's observations on how you can best use your expansion and growth to focus on success. There are many ways in which you can focus your efforts to increase your sales, and increase your visibility. After all, you have the opportunity to shape your own future, and a lot of other emergent wine regions successes and pitfalls to learn from. As I see it, here are the ways in which you can increase your recognition:

Marketing - Consumers need to know about you, and one way to do this is to get yourself out there. This can be done through focused PR pushes in the countries to which you export. Advertising, writeups in wine journals, and social media campaigns will put your country and your bottles in the craws of the hordes, it may get people talking (the best type of advertising) and may increase general awareness. This takes money, and takes time, and in my opinion must be backed up by quality, consistency, and availability. Marketing is the first step in creating buzz, and as inauthentic as it may be if no one knows about you - no one cares.

Tourism - Another way to increase your visibility is to ensure that your wine producing region is somewhere that people want to visit. France is the most visited country in the world, and the wine regions benefit from this (along with many other reasons). Take Temecula, California - they are certainly not winning any real recognition for the quality of their wine (offensiveness noted) but their ability to market the wine country lifestyle to the millions of San Diegans and Angelenos within 90 minutes drive of their vineyards keeps the cash flowing. If the region can combine wine with an infrastructure that encourages traffic (hotels, restaurants, other cultural interest) then your emergence will be pushed. If no one wants to come to the epicenter of your production, you will stall.

Perfecting your fruit - By far the most important aspect of your growth is your ability to grow the right fruit in the right setting. Different grapes obviously do well in different environments, and too many emerging regions are caught waffling between trying to find a grape that is unique to them, or trying to appeal to all the accepted global varietals, and they end up getting it all wrong. Your soil, your sun, your fog, may not be able to do both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, and trying to do so will only result in poor quality and a lack of distinction. On the other hand an insistence on pushing a grape that is unique to your region, as the sole means of identity, can also be difficult (I'm looking at you Pinotage). New Zealand languished a bit on the global scene until it was widely accepted that they had great conditions to create their grassy, grapefruity Sauvignon Blanc. Whether you like this style or not, it is undeniable that fitting that grape into their unique terroir, and honing in on the farming and vinification techniques that matched what the planet had given them, launched New Zealand into the everyday lexicon of wine drinker worldwide. In the end it is all about the fruit and until you discover what grapes are right for your region (and more importantly which ones are not) you will struggle to emerge.

Globalizing your wine style - A HUGE pitfall in emerging wine regions, is quickly attempting to globalize your wine style. It is a catastrophe, and one that I have seen over and over, to take the grapes you are given and assume that additional ripening, additional extraction, and additional oak will inherently produce a bottle of wine that can be marketed well (ala high scores), sold for more money (ala $100), and accepted into the restaurants and cellars that you strive for. Indistinct, but bombastic, fruit flavors with overtones of expensive vanilla and smokey char are not the answer. Consistent expression of your unique fruit is, and while slower, the authenticity of this approach is really the only way to go.


Let me get down to business. I am writing this letter directly to you Uruguay. As I recently had the opportunity to taste a whole lineup of what you are offering through your grape Tannat. It was a nice experience, and one filled with wines I would buy, drink, and recommend. And yet it got me thinking about the way in which you are emerging. I know you didn't ask for this advice, but it inevitably came welling up inside of me. The bottles I tasted seemed to be inversely appealing to the price point (for the most part). The cheaper bottles, such as the Puebla del Sol 2010 Tannat, and the Puelba del Sol 2010 Rose Tannat were fresh, distinct, and truly a pleasure to drink. At $10 they are perfect weekday wines, the red wine showing dusty blackberry, resolved tannins, and tart pomegranate, and the rose having fresh flavors of strawberry and a nice spicy element. These wines are exciting due to their low price point and their simple expression of something different, something Uruguyan. Moving up a level the Don Pascual 2010 Reserve Tannat was also fresh and delicious. The brambly blackberry began to show the dark fruit expression of this grape across several bottles, the acid kept the fruit in check, and the focus showed a slightly higher quality to the grapes used between this $16 bottle, and it's little Puebla del Sol cousin. But some of the more expensive bottles troubled me, the Don Pascual Roble 2010 Tannat and the $125 1er Cru d'Exception 2008 were lavishly oaked and therefore lost any sense of the grape and the country. This is not the way to go, and was disappointing.

So here are my final thoughts. Go with Tannat, that is fine. You are clearly able to grow the grape and keep it back from its often harsh tannic structure and difficult youth. There is also a consistency to the fruit expression from the grapes you are growing (when you don't bludgeon it with barrel staves). Tie the bottles to a lifestyle - we cooked up some traditional Uruguayan dishes (pascualina is a must try) and it was brilliant. South American wine has a starting place, and you can certainly be a distinct offering within this place. Let your fruit do the talking, and if that results in a slew of wines in the $10-$30 range, then you will be right in line with most Malbec, Carmenere, and Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon that has caught on in the U.S. And that is a good thing for your emergence. You have plenty going for you, and I hope you great success. I know my little venture into Tannat will result in more bottles of your product on my dinner table, and with a little focus and patience I believe my fellow wine drinkers will follow suit.

Scott

The Tannats were provided as media samples with intent to review.

Stuff Parisians Like - A Book Review

There comes a time in most wine explorations paths in which France must come into consideration. A country that produces so much wonderful wine simply must become a part of any true understanding of wine. And I must say that in my consideration is has done quite well. Even in our domestic productions we refer to Bordeaux blends, Burgundian grapes, and Rhone varietals. In my journey I have come to have a deep respect for the history, the traditions, and the qualities of the wines of France. It's not that one must think French wine better than their non-French counterparts (although many wine enthusiasts do) it is just a fact that many New World wines will tout their ability to compare to the standards France has set. The vinfluence of France's vineyards and cellars simply must be recognized.

What followed for me was a bit of a fascination with the people and culture of France. I hope you have learned on these pages how much an understanding of where a wine comes from can enhance a wine drinking experience. When I made the rather simple discovery that it was French people who invented the wonders of a bottle of Champagne, I knew that these people were fascinating.

I recently read a book, that while not exactly about wine, is a deep and sarcastic plunge into the culture of the Parisians. With plenty of insight into 'les paysans' the book offers a tongue-in-cheek whirlwind tour into many of the cultures that make up the French. Stuff Parisians Like, by Olivier Magny is arguably filled with offensive stereotypes, yet it instead comes across as a jovial celebration of the quirks and idiosyncrasies that make the French who they are.

For me this was a fun read, and one that takes some of the mysticism and intimidation out of the country that offers such a complex wine history. While not directly discussing wine and its array of regions in France, it reminded me that these are people just like the people of Sonoma, or Walla Walla. With hilarious chapters such as:

Having Theories

Despising le PSG

The Idea of Sailing

Bitching About Waiters

and Not Drinking Wine

This book will have you laughing, concurring, and feeling more confident about making a trip to Paris (followed by jaunts to Champagne, or the Loire). The author does have a strong wine connection, having opened O-Chateau in Paris to offer wine classes, and subsequently a wine bar in the 1er arrondissement that has a great reputation. Read the book, book your tickets to Paris, get signed up for one of Magny's classes, and let your wine exploration expand into a fascination with the wonderfully complex (but not as intimidating as you thought) culture of France.

You can purchase the book here.

The book was provided as a media sample.

A Tale of Two Pinots

The story: Wine writers/bloggers love to argue the merits of the wine score. This is generally followed up by an argument about the motivation to have the original score argument. The only conclusion here, from a less than interested consumer point of view, is that writers and critics probably just love to argue. That might be true. Or it may just be a matter of passion. Anyone who would dedicate themselves to a single subject the way wine writers and bloggers do, must have a bit of passion. And when you are passionate about something you naturally begin to develop opinions, and apparently the need to sharpen those opinions against contrasting thought. I understand the arguments for scores on both sides. It seems a bit foolish to try and quantify something as subjective as the experience of a taste of wine. And yet many consumers like the comfort that an expert's clearly expressed opinion offers them. Critics say that these scores must be taken in context with the text that accompanies the score to truly understand why the wine received the score it received.

I recently drank two New World Pinot Noirs within a short span. One from California's Sonoma Coast, the other from half way around the world in New Zealand, these wines were so remarkably alike that it got me thinking about scores, even with notes. Obviously tasted next to each other these wines would not be identical. And likely tasted next to each other a person would come up with a preference for one over the other (possibly even a strong preference). But from the tasting notes below, see if you can tell which one you would prefer and therefore put out your cash for:

The wines: The Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2009 Freestone Hills Pinot Noir is a translucent magenta in the glass, with a nice nose of dusty cherries, forest floor, and baking spice. The palate is lush and bursting with juicy cherries. Across the mid-palate the Christmas spice kicks in, turning the juice towards the sweet side and then finishing with enough acidity to keep it friendly.

The Craggy Range 2009 Te Muna Road Pinot Noir pours a bright cherry red. The nose expresses dusty cherry juice, a bit of herbacous leafiness, and some clear cinnamon. In the mouth one gets ripe cherry juiciness and a bit of barrel spice that leads to a rather heavy sweetness on the lengthy and tasty finish.

The verdict: In both cases I found these wines tasty, easy to drink, pleasant, and probably widely appealing. I wrote for both wines that they seemed a bit ripe and lacked any substantially interesting flavors, but would certainly have mass appeal, and present exactly what they intend to present. There is nothing wrong with either of these wines, you must just appreciate the fresh and fruity stylings of rather New World Pinot Noir. And (privately since I do not score wines on The Vino File), I gave both wines 89 points. I would also add that both wines will probably benefit from a bit more time, some of the nuance was lost in their youth and as the fruit recedes they will get better. By the way, both wines are around $40 (not uncommon for a quality pinot I suppose.)

What strikes me is that neither the score nor the note can really indicate the differences in these wines. That bothered me for awhile. But then I realized that taken individually this information is helpful, and for me is worthwhile. If I know I like my Pinot to express lively fruit, a touch of spice from laying in oak, and to be juicy and easy to drink, then these notes make it clear that I will enjoy these wines. If I know that I like my Pinot bold and layered, or more reserved and smokey, then these are probably not the wines for me.

In the end I do recommend these wines for people who prefer this style. They were both well made and delicious. I also propose that while context and severe distinction is impossible to anticipate or communicate in a score or a 60 word text, there is value in seeing what others say about a wine. I guess then I better keep on!

Disclaimer: These wines were received as media samples with intent to review.

A Sweet Spot for a Willamette Valley Stop

I need to come clean on something. Despite my utter obsession with wine I'm not too keen on a long day of tasting room hopping. I enjoy tasting and learning, and I enjoy trying to get a sense for a wine region that is new or unfamiliar to me, but often get bored at being presented with the marketed side of an afternoon in wine country. I seem to prefer experiencing the wines with food, across producers, or in the more intimate setting of a home (mine in particular). What this has translated to for me over the years is a tendency to seek out great little restaurants or cafes in a new wine region, that has a wine list that covers the area, offers by the glass or flight selections, and a great atmosphere and food.

I've found one in the Willamette Valley that clearly fits the bill. Opened recently in my childhood village of Albany, Sweet Red Coffee & Wine Bistro is a coffee and pastry shop in the morning, a great lunch bistro in the afternoon, and a laid back small plate cafe in the evening. It is cheery and welcoming, with just the right touch of sophistication in its menu. And it offers a very affordable by-the-glass wine list covering Oregon and bits of Washington.

If I have any complaints, I'm not big on the name. I know Americans like their wine sweet, but I have come across very few sweet red wines, outside of Port, that are particularly interesting. They have a few sweet reds that apparently sell very well, and I understand the need to move bottles, but it seems to me to diminish the seriousness that their spectacular food provides (and what pairs well with sweet reds?) Their wine list as a whole is also a bit shallow. There is plenty to enjoy, some good pinot noirs, a few Southern Oregon Bordeauxs that are very pleasant, but in an attempt to keep the glasses under $10 there is a lot of spectacular Northwest wine that is automatically eliminated. Again, probably in a very calculated manner to keep local regular customers coming back, which is a very valid tactic, but a few broader options in addition to the regular options would be appealing.

But enough of that, let me tell you why I love this place and will revisit whenever in the Willamette Valley. It is simply put the food. It is imaginative, inexpensive, beautifully plated, and downright delicious. Playing with local flavors, Sweet Red has invented such dishes as Walnut and Date Crostini - a delightfully complex play between the brown sugar sweetness of the dates, the oily nuttiness of the walnuts, and the pungent saltiness of brie. It is interesting in texture and flavor and a surprising start to a meal (tastes delicious with a light Oregon pinot by the way). Many of the entrees are rather straightforward in their planning, but sauced and seasoned in such a way that they feel unique (especially for the dining scene in little Albany). The fiery shrimp are perfectly spicy, and in my visit were also perfectly cooked. The brussel sprouts were a hit, as was the mac n' cheese. And the prices, for wine country, were very fair. With a few interesting micro brews on tap, this place rounds up to a real winner.

When touring the Willamette Valley it is worth heading south from the well-known Dundee Hills to check out some of the spectacular producers that have found unique terroir further down the valley. This puts you very near the town of Albany, where you can explore an entire downtown of well-preserved Victorian architecture, and get a sense of what rural Oregon towns are really like. If you do this, you must stop at Sweet Red, for an entirely different experience and one you will not regret.

The 10 Most Exciting Wines of 2011

I know people bag on Top Ten lists. But I don't know why. Maybe it is their fear of commitment. It is a pleasure for me to taste hundreds and hundreds of wines each year and carefully include a few in a rather short list. Those that stuck with me, stood out amongst the rest, and linger in my memories of 2011. The list I prefer to make is not necessarily those who I would score the highest (as occasionally rather perfect wines don't completely hold my interest.) Instead they are the 10 wines that were exciting for me. The 10 wines I remember exactly how they smelled and tasted, or how they added to a wonderful experience. So I present to you my 10 most exciting wines of 2011, and say without reservation that any of them would bring pleasure:

10) 2007 Scagliola Frem Barbera d'Asti - Maybe it was finding this wine for $10, but it seriously delivered with mushrooms and dark fruit, and perfect oak spicing (not easy for me to say). It was a spectacular blend of fruit and Italian rusticity that reminded me that Italian wine is made for the dinner table - as it went perfectly with our grilled sausage dinner.



9) 2008 Zotovitch Cellars Syrah - I've been a bit of a California Syrah advocate this year, and here is an example of why I love it. The meatiness and black pepper hint at the cold climate of these Sta. Rita Hills vineyards, and yet a hefty alcohol level integrates and adds some power. Steve Clifton consulted on this wine, and the result is delicious (and exciting!)



8) 2009 Uvaggio Vermentino - Back to Italy, but via Lodi, California. This wine is spectacularly savory and fresh. I chose it because I think there is something to Italian varietals and Lodi, something I would not have expected. While this is clearly my favorite wine of the lot, I have had some interesting dry Moscato, and Barbera from Lodi as well this year and hope that they are on to something. The price here is incentive to try it as well.



7) 2008 " The Day Job" Stage Left Cellars - A unique blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvedre makes for a layered wine that is distinct and exciting. I was also captivated by the story of Melinda Doty and Rich Williams who have built this urban Oakland winery piece by piece. If you get a hold of this wine, and really want to know what lingers for me, smell and taste for the Mourvedre's savory influence in the finish. I can still taste it.



6) 2008 Wind Gap Syrah Griffin's Lair - Oops, another California Syrah from a fairly cold vineyard happens to sneak in here. This one is multi-layered, broad, and a bit wild. It is truly a beautiful wine, from a label that is consistently making spectacular bottles.



5) 2010 Bedrock Compagni Portis Heirloom White - This wine makes the list because of owner/winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson's dedication to the nearly extinct 12 varietals of Compagni Portis vineyard that make up this blend. Well, some are nearly extinct. The wine is primarily Gewurtzraminer, and it is spectacularly waxy, tropical, and floral. It is a unique wine that seems truly Californian, but the spice and mineral on the finish bring it home in a way that is difficult to describe.



4) 2006 Vergari Van der Kamp Pinot Noir - I go back and forth with Pinot Noir, because there are so many bad ones. But this wine is spectacular. I first met David Vergaria at Pasadena's Pinot Fest last February, and have become a customer. His focus is clear (age able, balanced pinot from California's best vineyards) and his success is evident in each bottle I have opened. The Van der Kamp offers dusty cherries and herbs, hints of smoke and earth, and beautiful acidity.



3) 2009 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane - Expensive, yes. Mind-blowing, yes. Able to create a Condrieu evangelist out of me, triple yes. I had no idea what Viognier could be until I tasted this spicy, musky, smokey beauty. But it was the contrast between the expansive flavors that effortlessly maintained an intense focus that really got me excited. I rarely say this on The Vino File, but this bottle is worth the nearly $100 price tag.



2) 2010 Maison Bleue Marsanne Boushey Vineyard - Another white Rhone, but from Stateside this time. The almonds, the beautiful peach, and the sublime texture makes this wine intensely appealing. Add the winery's other outstanding wines in the last two years and you have yourself an up and comer that still offers outstanding value. Washington has a winner in this wine, and in Maison Bleue.



1) Henriot NV Blanc Souverain Brut - Yep, a Champagne takes my wine of the year. I don't drink enough of this stuff, and this is the bottle that set me straight. Apple fruit and pleasing bubbles yes, but a lot more. There is a hazelnut aspect to this wine, and just the right sense of creaminess. I lingered over this glass, and went on and on, just long enough to get off my bum and start adding Champagne to my regular buying (and drinking) habits. More than any other wine, this bottle changed my wine consumption habits. I dare you to resist it's appeal.



Some amazing wines, from a great year. Making the list brings back some great memories and yet definitely propels me with excitement into 2012. I would love to hear your most exciting wine of 2011 in the comments. In the meantime have a very Happy New Year!!

Merry Christmas To All

Just a quick post today to wish you all a very merry Christmas (or whatever you may be celebrating this week). I genuinely hope that as 2011 winds to an end you find yourself surrounded by friends and family with a moment to relax and reflect, and certainly with some time to enjoy some good food and wine.

2011 for me will be remembered as the year I spent in San Francisco, the year the blog shifted down to a more manageable once-a-week endeavour, and the first year in a long time that the niece and nephew count held steady at 6. It was a polarized and therefore rather inefficient year in Washington, a second year of strangely cold grape ripening in the U.S, and the end to our troops in Iraq. Globally we saw a developing Euro crisis, and revolutions in the Middle East.

Its worth a moment to reflect as we start to look forward to 2012. For me it is worth a few celebrations (because you got through something, or because of accomplishments, both worth some joy!) It is worth a moment of planning or dreaming about what next year holds, and it is worth me telling you that I appreciate that you read and enjoy this blog. As I've always said, this is fun for me - and I genuinely appreciate that you share that experience.

So a quick toast, a sincere wish of holiday cheer, and a promise to be back one more time this year to share my most interesting wines of 2011. Now off to the market to get that horseradish for tomorrow's prime rib (it's an excuse for the unusual opening of a big California Cabernet tomorrow evening!!) Cheers!

A Quick Trip to Planet Bordeaux

It is no wonder that Bordeaux as a category fights for the everyman attention in the United States. The general story an American consumer hears from Bordeaux involves intense auctions in Hong Kong, vitally important vintage variation, confusing implied quality dependent on the village name on the bottle, and the idea that Bordeaux means tannic red wines meant for a big hunk of beef. The irony is that all of these things CAN be true. But the flip-side gets lost in the sensationalism. I have found, in a couple of interactions with the marketing group Planet Bordeaux, that there is a simple and ultimately very pleasant way to skirt around these imposing generalizations. There are whole swaths of bottles of Bordeaux produced in less recognized vineyards that are categorized simply as Bordeaux, or Bordeaux Superieur. Still grown and vinified with tight standards, these wines don't demand the attention of their 'more important' cousins. This comes at a bit of a price; what do you potentially lose:

1. Not all of these wines are as high quality as the more specific regional AOC designated wines (Paulliac, Graves, etc.) but this is not always true
   


2. These wines generally do not age as long as the more specific regional AOC designated wines
   


3. The producers are certainly less well known or marketed, so it is more often the case that you are taking a chance

But what is to be gained by drinking Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur

1. These wines are fantastically affordable (usually under $20, sometimes closer to $10)
   


2. These wines can be drunk early, buy it tonight and drink it tonight
   


3. There are large quantities of these wines, new producers to explore any day of the week
   


4. These wines offer some great quality finds
   


5. There are whites, clairets, and reds to fit with a huge variety of foods and event

So the pros vastly outweigh the cons. Every time I explore this inexpensive category I am reminded that these are wonderful every day wines that more Americans can and should enjoy. They generally taste and feel like what you might expect from 'Bordeaux', therefore fitting a unique category in your wine exploration. And they won't break the bank.

During a recent tasting with Planet Bordeaux I was introduced to the following wines, all of which I can recommend, presented here in my order of preference:

Chateau de Bel 2009 Bordeaux Superieur - Smokey in the nose and on the palate, there is plenty of rich blackberry and plum to appeal to the fruit inspired folks. The tar and spice keep things nice, and the freshness to this wine keeps it from ever appearing 'gloppy' Delicious and impressive for the $16 price tag.

Chateau Lamothe Vincent 2009 Bordeaux - Fig, cedar, and tobacco invite the nose, and dark berries and earth lead to a lead like, minerally finish. A bit more classically Old World than the Bel, this is a deep and structured wine - and only $15!

Grand Vin de Reignac 2008 - You have read about Reignac wines on these pages before, and possibly heard about this star Chateau elsewhere. This is a wine that has often been blind tasted against the big boys and almost always held its own. The 2008 was a bit closed for me (these babies can take some bottle age) but the dusty hints of leather on the nose, nice oak notes on the palate, and firm tannins hint at a beautiful wine and another year of spectacular bargain.

Chateau de Parenchere 2010 Bordeaux Clairet - Bordeaux produces some wonderful rose wines, often a bit more serious than the more famous French roses from Provence. These wines are a deeper red, this one was bright cherry red, and the vibrant red fruits lean more towards ripe plums than you might expect. This wine was certainly vibrant but had more serious spice, even chocolate and earth, in the palate. Interesting for its refreshing qualities that juxtapose against its more serious qualities - and a wine that would be a blast to play with in interesting and unexpected food pairings (i.e. this could take some heft from the plate) The exciting thing about this wine is that if you generally like roses you will probably like this wine, and if you generally do not - this wine might surprise you. At $12 its worth the experimentation.

Finally we tasted the Chateau Larteau 2005 to get an idea of how these inexpensive wines can take a bit of age. There was a bit of sweet cherry to the nose and palate of this wine that surprised me, but also blueberries, sweet pipe tobacco, and some nice chalky tannins. This wine was taking its age well, but overall seemed less interesting and vibrant than the other wines. That said, it was good, and well worth the 10 BP it will cost you (shipping across the pond might be a hefty bill...) I'm not sure you can easily find this vintage in the US, but take this as a note - these wines can take some bottle age (not the 30 years of Lafitte, but if you like some tertiary development you can do this)

I can't reiterate enough how strongly I feel these wines are missing from most American's consideration. Be it the low price that does not inspire confidence, the aversion to Bordeaux as an overwhelming category, or the tendency to buy your everyday wine at the supermarket - ignoring Bordeaux is deciding to miss out. This winter take my heartfelt advice and try a few (you might just change your tune about Merlot in the meantime).